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A 6 inch metal landscape edging strip gives you a clean, durable border between grass and beds, and you can install it in a single weekend with basic tools. The key is planning the line, digging a shallow trench to the right depth, and setting stakes so the top edge sits just above grade. This guide walks through each step, from measuring and marking to backfilling and maintenance.
Why 6 Inch Metal Landscape Edging Works for Most Yards
Six inches is a practical height for most residential beds. It is tall enough to hold back turf roots and mulch, yet low enough that a string trimmer can ride over it without much effort. Metal strips in this height are usually installed with about 4 inches below grade and roughly 2 inches showing above the soil line, which keeps the top edge crisp without creating a tripping hazard. For a broader look at how metal compares with other options, see Metal Lawn Edging: Steel and Aluminum Pros and Cons and Lawn Edging Materials Compared: Metal, Plastic, Stone.
Shopping for one? See our guide: 10 Best Edging Tools for Yard Options for Clean Lawn Lines (2026).
Tools and Materials You Will Need
Gather everything before you start. Stopping mid-trench to hunt for a stake wastes time and can leave a soil line that dries out and cracks.
- 6 inch metal edging strips, sized to your run (typically 8 to 10 feet per length)
- Metal or heavy-duty plastic stakes made for the specific edging profile
- Garden hose or marking paint for laying out the curve
- Flat spade or half moon edging tool
- Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer
- Tape measure and level (a 4 foot level is easiest)
- Tin snips or an angle grinder with a cut-off wheel for metal cuts
- Work gloves and eye protection
If you are still deciding which digging and trimming tools to bring, Tools for Installing Lawn Edging: A Practical Kit covers a practical starter set.
Step 1: Plan the Shape and Width of the Bed
Before you touch the soil, decide exactly where the edge will run. Straight runs are easy, but gentle curves need thought. Keep radii at least 3 feet where possible, because metal strips bend less easily than plastic and tight curves cause kinks. For planning shapes and bed widths, Landscape Borders: Planning Shape, Width and Plants is a useful reference.
Mark the Layout
Lay out a garden hose in the shape you want and walk around it to check flow. When you are satisfied, spray marking paint along the hose or drive a line of marking flags at 2 to 3 foot intervals. Step back from the marks to confirm the look from the house and from the walkway.
Step 2: Cut and Dig the Trench
Dig along your marked line so the trench is slightly wider than the metal strip and about 4 inches deep. The top of the strip should end up roughly 2 inches above the surrounding soil. Use a flat spade to cut straight down the line, then lift out the soil on the grass side and the bed side.
Check the Depth as You Go
- Set your spade blade at 4 inches and use it as a depth gauge every few feet.
- Keep the bottom of the trench as flat as possible so the strip does not rock.
- Remove rocks and roots that could push the strip out of line later.
Dig the trench in sections of about 6 to 8 feet at a time, especially in dry or compacted soil, so the open trench does not collapse before you set the metal.
Step 3: Set the Metal Strip
Unroll or lay the strips into the trench, starting at one end. Use a rubber mallet to tap them down until the top edge is at the planned height. Check that the strip is vertical, not leaning toward the lawn or the bed. Leaning edging loses its clean look quickly and can allow grass to creep through the gap.
Joining Sections
Most 6 inch metal edging connects with overlapping ends or a simple slip joint. Overlap sections by a few inches, then drive a stake through the overlap so the joint stays aligned. Avoid leaving a gap at the joint, which becomes a runner path for turf roots.
Cutting Pieces to Length
Measure carefully and mark the cut line on the metal. Tin snips work for thin gauge strips, while a cut-off wheel is faster for thicker material. Wear eye protection and gloves, as cut metal edges are sharp. File any burrs smooth after cutting.
Step 4: Stake the Edging Securely
Staking is what keeps the strip standing through mowing and frost heave. Place stakes on the bed side of the metal, not the lawn side, so the mower does not catch them.
- Space stakes about 12 to 18 inches apart on straight runs and closer, around 8 to 12 inches, on tight curves.
- Set each stake at an angle so it pulls the strip against the bottom of the trench.
- Drive the stake until its head sits slightly below the top edge of the metal.
- Check level along the run with your 4 foot level, adjusting stakes as needed.
Manufacturers commonly recommend staking every 12 to 18 inches, but local soil and freeze-thaw cycles may call for tighter spacing. Clay soils and sloped sites often need more stakes.
Step 5: Backfill and Finish the Line
Backfill the soil on both sides of the strip and tamp it lightly by hand or with the back of the spade. Fill the bed side first, then the lawn side, so the metal does not shift. Water the soil lightly to settle it.
Once the edge is set, lay mulch or plant beds up to the metal but not over the top. Keep the grass cut to the top of the strip so the line stays visible.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Setting the top too high. A strip that sits more than 2 inches above grade is a trip hazard and looks harsh. Lower it to the recommended height.
- Skipping stakes on curves. Curved runs bow outward over time without enough support.
- Digging the trench too deep. A trench deeper than the strip leaves a gap for soil to fall into, which weakens the line.
- Ignoring the joints. Gaps at seams let grass roots crawl through.
- Forgetting to level. Uneven strips show up quickly along long runs. Recheck with a level as you go.
Maintenance Tips for Long-Lasting Edging
Check the line once or twice a season for heaved sections, loose stakes, and rust at cut ends. Re-tap any strip that has lifted, and drive new stakes where needed. Trim grass along the edge with a string trimmer or half moon tool to keep the line crisp. For power trimming options, see Lawn Edging Tools: Manual Edgers, Power Edgers, Trimmers and Best String Trimmers for Lawn Edging: 3 WEN String Trimmers Compared.
Recommended gear
These tools and supplies make the job faster and the result neater.
- Half moon edging tool: A flat, crescent-shaped blade that cuts a clean vertical edge along the trench line and helps you keep the strip straight. View on Amazon
- Rubber mallet: Drives the strip down evenly without denting the metal. View on Amazon
- Metal edging stakes: Hold the strip firmly in place along curves and slopes. View on Amazon
- Cut-off wheel for angle grinder: Makes fast, clean cuts through thicker steel edging. View on Amazon
FAQ
How deep should I bury 6 inch metal landscape edging?
Most installations bury about 4 inches of the strip, leaving roughly 2 inches above the soil. Check the specific manufacturer guidance for your product, as some profiles call for slightly different depths.
How far apart should stakes be placed?
A common spacing is 12 to 18 inches on straight runs, with closer spacing on curves and in loose or sloped soil.
Can I install 6 inch metal edging on a curve?
Yes. Keep curves gentle, ideally with a radius of at least 3 feet, and use more stakes than you would on a straight run.
How do I cut metal landscape edging?
Thin strips can be cut with tin snips. Thicker steel is usually easier to cut with an angle grinder fitted with a metal cut-off wheel. Wear eye protection and gloves, and file any sharp edges afterward.
Will mower blades damage metal edging?
Occasional contact is unlikely to cause harm if the top edge is set at the recommended height. Repeated hits can bend the top, so keep the mower wheel on the lawn side and trim close to the line rather than over it.
Does metal edging rust?
It depends on the metal. Galvanized steel and aluminum resist rust better than untreated steel. Inspect cut ends and seams periodically, since these areas are most prone to corrosion.
When is the best time to install edging?
Spring and fall are generally good windows because the soil is workable and moisture helps settle the backfill. Avoid digging when the ground is frozen or waterlogged.
Conclusion
A 6 inch metal landscape edging line is straightforward to install when you plan the layout, dig to a consistent depth, and stake the strip well. Take your time on curves and joints, since those are where most problems start. With a little seasonal upkeep, the border should keep its clean lines for years.
