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Spikes for landscape edging are short stakes or pins that hold flexible edging material, such as steel strips, plastic rails, or rubber borders, in a straight or curved line. In this guide you will learn what spikes do, how to choose the right type for your soil and edging, how to space and drive them so the border stays put, and how to avoid the mistakes that cause edging to heave or wander. By the end, you will have a practical plan for a border that holds its shape through mowing seasons.
What Spikes for Landscape Edging Actually Do
Edging on its own is just a strip of material resting in a trench. Spikes anchor that strip so it resists frost heave, mower bumps, and the slow pressure of mulch and soil pushing against it. Without them, most flexible edging will tip, creep, or pull loose within a season or two. With them, the border keeps its line and keeps grass from creeping across it.
Shopping for one? See our guide: 10 Best Edging Tools for Yard Options for Clean Lawn Lines (2026).
Spikes are usually sold as the fastening hardware that comes with a particular edging product, but many homeowners also buy them separately. The two main jobs they handle are holding the edge vertical and locking the strip against the ground so it cannot be shoved sideways.
Common Types of Spikes
- Steel spikes with a Z or U profile, often sized to match steel edging strips. These are the most common in residential kits.
- Plastic or polymer stakes, typically paired with plastic or rubber edging. They are lighter and easier to drive by hand but can crack in very hard or rocky soil.
- Long landscape stakes with a flat head, used for heavier rubber or composite edging. Longer shafts hold better in loose or sandy ground.
- Ground pins or U-staples, which pinch the edge at the base rather than running vertically through it. These suit very thin edging.
Step 1: Choose the Right Spike for Your Edging and Soil
Match the spike to the edging you are installing. Mismatched hardware is the single most common reason a border fails early. Check that the spike has a slot, hook, or clip that fits your edging profile. A spike that is too thin will tear through a thin plastic rail, and one that is too wide may not seat in the edging channel.
Soil type matters as much as hardware. Manufacturers generally recommend longer spikes for loose, sandy, or freshly graded soil and shorter, sturdier spikes for compacted clay or rocky ground where a long shaft may bend. If you hit rock during installation, shorten your spacing or switch to a shorter spike rather than forcing the stake.
Step 2: Plan the Layout and Mark the Line
Before you drive anything, mark the border. Use a garden hose for curves and a string line or stakes for straight runs. Walk the line, look at it from the lawn side and the bed side, and adjust until the curve flows naturally. Spray paint or a line of flour works well for marking the ground.
Plan the trench width to match the edging. Most residential edging is set in a trench slightly wider than the strip so you can backfill and tamp. Keep the top of the edging at or just above grade on the lawn side if you want the mower to ride cleanly, or set it slightly higher if you are containing mulch.
Step 3: Set the Spikes at the Correct Spacing
Spacing controls how well the border resists movement. As a general guideline, many manufacturers call for spikes roughly every 12 to 24 inches along straight runs. Use closer spacing, around 12 inches, on curves, corners, and anywhere the edging will face heavy mower traffic or mulch pressure. Place a spike within a few inches of every joint between strips, and never rely on a joint alone to hold the line.
How to Drive Spikes Straight
- Set the edging strip into the trench and hold it at the correct height.
- Position the spike through the slot or clip, keeping it perpendicular to the ground.
- Drive the spike with a rubber mallet, striking the head squarely. Stop when the head sits flush with or slightly below the edging top.
- Check the edging with a level or straightedge and tap the spike again if the strip has tilted.
- Move to the next spike and repeat until the full run is anchored.
Step 4: Backfill, Tamp, and Check Alignment
Once the spikes are set, backfill along the lawn side and the bed side with soil or base material. Tamp in layers so the edging cannot wobble. Recheck the line after each section, because tamping can nudge a strip out of position. A quick walk along the border after backfilling will reveal bulges or dips you can fix while the soil is still soft.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Using spikes that are too short for the soil, which lets the edging lift in the first freeze-thaw cycle.
- Spacing spikes too far apart on curves, where edging naturally wants to flatten or kink.
- Driving spikes at an angle, which weakens the grip and pulls the strip out of line.
- Overdriving steel or plastic heads, which can split plastic or bend steel.
- Skipping backfill and tamping, leaving voids that let the edging rock.
Tips for Long-Lasting Results
- Install edging when the soil is moist but not saturated, so it is easier to drive spikes without cracking clods.
- Keep a little extra spike stock on hand for repairs after a heavy storm or a season of mower contact.
- Inspect the border each spring. Re-tap any spike that has backed out before it causes a gap.
- If you are also choosing the edging material, compare options first. You can read more in Lawn Edging Materials Compared: Metal, Plastic, Stone and Metal Lawn Edging: Steel and Aluminum Pros and Cons.
- For curves, plan the layout carefully before setting any hardware. Landscape Borders: Planning Shape, Width and Plants covers layout decisions in more depth.
Tools and Supplies You Will Need
- Spikes matched to your edging profile
- Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer
- Spray paint or flour for marking the line
- Garden hose or string line
- Level or straightedge
- Shovel or edging spade for the trench
- Base material or topsoil for backfill
For a fuller kit, see Tools for Installing Lawn Edging: A Practical Kit.
Recommended gear
A dead-blow mallet drives spikes without bouncing and damaging the head, which helps keep fasteners straight. View on Amazon
A small torpedo level or straightedge helps you confirm each run is plumb along the top edge before you backfill. View on Amazon
A marking paint can make it easier to lay out curves and straight lines before any trenching begins. View on Amazon
FAQ
How far apart should spikes for landscape edging be placed?
Manufacturers commonly recommend about 12 to 24 inches on straight runs, with closer spacing on curves and corners. Check the instructions for your specific edging product.
Can I use spikes with plastic edging?
Yes, but use spikes designed for plastic or polymer edging. Overdriving or using the wrong profile can crack the material.
How deep should spikes go?
Drive them until the head sits flush with or just below the top of the edging. The shaft should be fully seated in firm soil.
Why does my edging keep heaving after freezing weather?
Spikes may be too short, too widely spaced, or not driven straight. Frost can lift loose edging, so re-anchor the spikes and consider shorter spacing.
Do I need spikes if I am setting edging in concrete?
Usually not for holding alignment, though some installers still use them during setting to hold the line while the base cures. Follow your product’s guidance.
Can spikes be removed and reused?
Often yes, if they are undamaged. Pull them gently with a claw hammer or pliers, then inspect for bends before reinstalling.
What is the best time of year to install edging with spikes?
Spring and early fall, when soil is workable and not frozen or bone dry, tend to give the best results.
Should I hire a professional for a large or complex border?
For extensive curved beds, retaining elements, or rocky ground, a landscape professional can help with layout and hardware choices.
Conclusion
Spikes for landscape edging turn a loose strip of material into a border that holds its line for years. Choose hardware that matches your edging and soil, space spikes closely on curves, drive them straight, and backfill carefully. A few minutes of checking each spring will keep your clean lines looking sharp.
