Caleb MorganBy Caleb Morgan

Learning how to install landscape edging comes down to four jobs: marking a clean path, digging a trench to the right depth, setting the edging so it sits level and stays put, and backfilling so the border holds its shape for years. Done well, the result is a crisp boundary between lawn and beds that keeps mulch in and grass out. This guide walks through each stage in order, with measurements, a tool checklist, and the mistakes that cause edging to heave or wander.

What You Need Before You Start

Most landscape edging projects take a single weekend for a typical front bed. Gather your supplies first so you are not stopping halfway through a trench. The list below covers the core items for most edging types, including plastic, metal, and steel strips.

Shopping for one? See our guide: Easyflex No Dig Landscape Edging Kit Review: Is It Worth It?.

  • Edging material, cut to length with a few extra feet for corners and mistakes
  • Garden spray paint or stakes and string for marking the layout
  • Flat spade or half-moon edger for cutting a clean trench
  • Garden hose or rope for laying out curves
  • Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer for seating the edging
  • Level, preferably a 4-foot or 6-foot straightedge
  • Landscape stakes or spikes matched to your edging type
  • Crushed stone or sand for a base, if your soil is soft or wet
  • Gloves, knee pads, and a utility knife for cutting material

Step 1: Plan and Mark the Layout

Before you dig, mark the exact line where the edging will sit. Straight runs are easy with a string line pulled taut between two stakes. For curves, lay a garden hose in the shape you want and walk around it, checking that the arc flows smoothly rather than bulging in one spot. A gentle curve usually reads better than a tight bend, and most flexible edging needs a minimum radius to avoid kinking. Check your manufacturer’s specification, since many products list a minimum curve radius on the packaging or spec sheet. A related read: How to Install and Use a Lawn Mower Mulching Kit.

Spray-paint the line on the turf or drive stakes along it at 3- to 4-foot intervals. Step back from the yard and view the layout from the house or sidewalk. Adjust anything that looks lumpy before you commit.

Step 2: Cut the Trench to the Right Depth

The trench is what makes the edging look intentional. Use a flat spade or half-moon edger to cut straight down along the marked line, then lift out the sod on the lawn side. Most landscape edging sits with its top roughly level with the surrounding lawn or 1 to 2 inches above grade on the bed side, so dig deep enough to bury the bottom of the strip and leave the top at your target height.

Typical Trench Dimensions

Exact depth depends on the product and the height you want, but the table below gives general guidance drawn from common installation practice. Always confirm with the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific product.

Edging Type Typical Trench Depth Typical Exposed Height Base Recommended
Plastic, stake-in 4 to 6 inches 1 to 2 inches Optional, firm soil fine
Steel or aluminum, spiked 3 to 4 inches Flush to 1 inch Recommended in soft soil
Wood timber Half to full board height Varies by design Gravel bed advised
Paver or concrete strip 3 to 4 inches Flush to 2 inches Compacted base required

Keep the trench width just slightly wider than the edging so you can seat it without fighting the soil. Remove roots, rocks, and debris from the bottom so the strip sits flat.

Step 3: Add a Base if Needed

In sandy or loose soil, a short base helps the edging hold its position through freeze-thaw cycles and heavy rain. Pour in 1 to 2 inches of crushed stone or coarse sand, then tamp it firmly with the back of a spade or a hand tamper. A level base prevents the edging from tilting toward the lawn. Clay soil that drains slowly can also benefit from a base, but make sure water has somewhere to go so it does not pool behind the strip.

Step 4: Set the Edging in Place

Lay each section in the trench and check it against your string line. Butt sections together tightly, using the connector pieces the manufacturer provides for a seamless join. Keep the top edge consistent along the run by checking with a level every few feet. On curves, flex the material gently and let it follow the hose layout rather than forcing it into a sharp bend that could crack or kink it.

Anchoring the Edging

Most edging relies on stakes, spikes, or pins driven through the strip into the soil. Place one anchor at each joint and roughly every 12 to 18 inches between joints, or as your product’s instructions specify. Drive the anchors straight down with a rubber mallet, stopping when the head sits just below the top of the strip. Overdriving can bend or split the material, while underdriving leaves it able to lift. Hammer-in and spike-style products especially depend on correct anchor spacing for long-term stability.

Step 5: Backfill and Finish the Edge

Once the edging is anchored, backfill the bed side with the soil you removed, packing it firmly against the strip so it does not shift. Compact the soil in layers rather than dumping and walking away. On the lawn side, fill any gap between the edging and the turf with soil and reseed or lay sod to meet the new line. A clean, slightly raised lip on the bed side helps hold mulch.

Rake the bed and check the line one more time with a level and by eye. Make small adjustments now, because the edging is easiest to reposition before mulch covers the base.

Tips for Clean, Long-Lasting Edging

  • Install after a rain or after watering the bed, when soil is moist and easier to cut cleanly, but not so wet that it smears.
  • Cut sections with a hacksaw or a tool recommended for your material, and deburr sharp metal edges with a file or grinder cap before handling.
  • Work in short runs so the trench does not collapse or dry out before you set the material.
  • Check the line at multiple points from different angles, because a level can hide a slight wobble in a long run.
  • Keep a few spare stakes and a short length of edging for future repairs.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Too shallow a trench. Edging that sits on the surface is more likely to heave, tip, or push out after the first freeze.
  • Skipping the level check. Small dips accumulate into a visibly wavy line over a 20-foot run.
  • Too few anchors. Spacing anchors too far apart lets the strip bow outward when mulch and soil press against it.
  • Forcing tight curves. Material bent beyond its minimum radius can crack, especially in cold weather.
  • Ignoring drainage. A solid edge can dam water in the bed, so make sure runoff has a path to drain.
  • Backfilling carelessly. Loose soil behind the strip settles and leaves a gap that looks unfinished.

Choosing the right tools makes trenching faster and keeps your line accurate. The items below are commonly used in edging work and suit most homeowner projects.

  • Half-moon edger: Its curved blade slices clean trench lines through turf, which is especially helpful on the lawn side and for tight curves. View on Amazon
  • Dead-blow rubber mallet: It drives anchors and seats edging without denting or splitting the material. View on Amazon
  • Four-foot aluminum level: A longer level makes it easier to check the top edge along a straight run. View on Amazon
  • Landscape edging stakes or spikes: Matching anchors to your edging type keeps the strip secure through seasonal soil movement. View on Amazon

FAQ

How deep should landscape edging be installed?

Most edging should be buried deep enough that its bottom is well below the surface, usually 3 to 6 inches depending on the product and height. Follow the manufacturer’s trench guidance for your specific material.

Do I need a gravel base under landscape edging?

A base is recommended in sandy, loose, or poorly drained soil. Firm, well-draining soil may not need one, but a thin layer of crushed stone can help the edging resist heaving.

How far apart should landscape edging stakes be placed?

Place stakes at each joint and roughly every 12 to 18 inches between joints unless your product’s instructions say otherwise. Closer spacing helps on curves and in soft soil.

Can I install landscape edging on a curve?

Yes, as long as you respect the product’s minimum curve radius. Lay out the curve with a garden hose first, then flex the material gently to follow it without kinking.

Should landscape edging be level with the lawn?

Many people set the top flush with or slightly above the lawn, around 1 inch above grade on the bed side. Flush installs make mowing easier, while a small lip helps retain mulch.

When is the best time of year to install landscape edging?

Spring and early fall usually offer moist, workable soil and moderate temperatures. Avoid installing during deep frost or when the ground is saturated, since both make trenching and anchoring harder.

How do I keep landscape edging from heaving in winter?

Use an adequate trench depth, add a compacted base in loose soil, and anchor the strip firmly. Good drainage behind the edge also reduces frost movement.

Conclusion

Installing landscape edging is a manageable project when you plan the layout, cut a trench to the correct depth, anchor the material at the right spacing, and backfill carefully. Take the time to check your line with a level and a string, and make adjustments before the mulch goes down. With those steps, your borders will stay crisp and hold their shape for seasons to come.

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Caleb Morgan

About Caleb Morgan

Caleb Morgan is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our lawn edging & trimming guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.