Groundsmart Brickface Landscape Edging: Install Steps and Tips for Clean Lines

By Caleb Morgan

Groundsmart brickface landscape edging is a faux-brick edging product designed to hold a clean line between your lawn, beds and hardscape without the look of a plain plastic strip. This guide walks you through planning the run, preparing the trench, setting the pieces, and finishing the joints so the edge stays straight and level for years. The steps apply to most interlocking brickface edging systems, so you can use them even if your product packaging differs slightly.

What Groundsmart Brickface Edging Is Best Suited For

Brickface edging is a molded landscape border that mimics the look of stacked or laid brick. It is typically used along lawn perimeters, flower beds, walkways and patio edges. Because it sits at or just above grade, it works well where you want a defined border without a tall wall. It is less suited to retaining soil on a steep slope, where a structural retaining product is the better choice.

Shopping for one? See our guide: Easyflex No Dig Landscape Edging Kit Review: Is It Worth It?.

If you are still deciding between materials, the comparison guides on this site are a useful starting point. Our overview of Ground Smart Landscape Edging: 8 Best Options Compared (2026) covers how this family of products stacks up, and Faux Rock Landscape Edging: 8 Best Options Compared for Clean Lines (2026) explains the decorative alternatives.

Tools and Materials You Will Need

Gather everything before you start. Stopping mid-trench to hunt for a tool wastes time and often leaves the soil exposed.

• Groundsmart brickface edging sections, plus the manufacturer’s stakes and connectors
• Stakes or anchor pins, sized to the product (check the packaging)
• Flat-blade spade or edging spade for trenching
• Hand tamper or plate compactor for the base
• Line level and a mason’s string line
• Garden hose or marking paint for laying out the curve
• Rubber mallet for seating pieces
• Hacksaw or rotary cutter for trimming sections to length
• Crushed stone or sand for a stable base, if the manufacturer recommends it
• Gloves, safety glasses and knee pads

Step-by-Step: Installing Groundsmart Brickface Landscape Edging

Step 1: Plan the Layout and Mark the Line

Lay a garden hose along the path you want, adjusting until the curve looks smooth from several viewpoints. For straight runs, snap a string line between two stakes. Mark the line with marking paint or spray flour. Check the finished width of your bed or lawn so the edging sits where you intend, typically with the top flush with the lawn or slightly above it.

Step 2: Cut the Trench

Most brickface sections need a trench deep enough that the top of the edging sits at the height you want once the base is in. A common approach is to dig to the full height of the section plus 1 to 2 inches for base material. Keep the trench walls vertical and the floor level. For curves, dig slightly wider than the product footprint so you have room to maneuver pieces into position.

Step 3: Prepare the Base

Remove roots, rocks and debris from the trench floor. If the soil is soft or prone to washing, add 1 to 2 inches of compacted crushed stone or sand. Tamp in layers, checking that the surface is level along the entire run. A stable base prevents sinking and heaving, which are the most common reasons edging loses its line over time.

Step 4: Set the First Sections

Start at a fixed point, such as a corner or the end of a walkway, and set the first section on the base. Check it with the line level front to back and side to side. Tap it down with a rubber mallet until the top edge matches your reference line. Install the anchoring stakes as specified in the instructions, driving them so their heads are at or just below the top of the section.

Step 5: Connect and Level Each Section

Interlock or join each new section to the previous one, then re-check level before moving on. Working in short runs of three to five sections lets you correct small errors before they compound. On curves, you may need to flex the joints slightly or cut sections to fit the arc. Keep joints tight so soil and mulch cannot wash through.

Step 6: Cut and Finish the Ends

Measure the final section and cut it to length with a hacksaw or rotary cutter. Wear eye protection, since plastic and composite fragments fly. Seal the cut end where needed and set the piece so its finished face points the same direction as the rest of the run.

Step 7: Backfill and Compact

Backfill behind the edging with soil, and tamp it gently to lock the section in place. Fill the lawn side and the bed side evenly so the edging is not pushed out of line. Water the area lightly and recheck level after the first few rains, since minor settling is normal in the first season.

Quick-Reference Table: Install Factors

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Skipping the base. Setting sections directly on loose soil is the fastest route to uneven edging.
• Installing without a reference line. Eyeballing a long run almost always produces wobbles that show up once the lawn is mowed.
• Setting the top too high. A few millimeters too high can scalp grass or block mower wheels. Aim for flush or just proud of grade.
• Backfilling one side only. Uneven soil pressure pushes the edging out of line.
• Ignoring the stakes. Stakes hold the run against freeze-thaw movement and root pressure. Installing fewer than the recommended number is a common shortcut that causes later problems.
• Forcing sections on curves. Cutting a few sections to shape the arc works better than bending pieces past their design limits.

Tips for a Cleaner, Longer-Lasting Edge

• Install edging before the final lawn seeding or sod, so you can trim the turf to the edge cleanly.
• Keep mulch a half-inch below the top of the edging to make trimming easier and reduce the chance of mulch spilling onto the lawn.
• Inspect the line at the start and end of each growing season, and re-tamp any sections that have shifted.
• Use a string trimmer or edger along the edge, angled slightly away from the bed, to keep grass from creeping over the top.

For a broader look at how edging is maintained over time, the guide to Best Landscape Edging for Mulch and Grass Control: 5 Edging Compared explains how different products handle grass creep and mulch containment. If your run includes a long straight section, Steel Edging for Landscape: 7 Best Picks for Clean Lines (2026) offers a useful comparison of materials that hold a straight line under load.

Recommended gear

Most of what you need is standard yard equipment, but these items make the job faster and the result neater.

• Edging spade with a flat blade. A flat-bladed spade cuts a clean, vertical trench wall, which helps the sections sit square. View on Amazon
• Rubber mallet. Seats pieces without cracking the edging or marring the face. View on Amazon
• Line level and mason’s string. Keeps long runs straight and at a consistent height. View on Amazon
• Hand tamper. Compacts the base layer evenly so the edging stays put. View on Amazon

FAQ

Do I need to pour concrete under groundsmart brickface edging?

Usually no. Most brickface systems rely on a compacted gravel or sand base and stakes rather than concrete. Check the manufacturer’s instructions, since some heavy-duty or raised applications may call for additional support.

How deep should the trench be?

Dig deep enough for the full section height plus the base layer, usually around 1 to 2 inches of crushed stone or sand. The goal is for the top of the edging to sit flush with or slightly above the lawn.

Can I install brickface edging on a curve?

Yes. Lay out the curve with a garden hose first, dig the trench slightly wider than the footprint, and cut sections as needed to follow the arc. Tight curves may require shorter pieces.

How many stakes do I need per section?

Follow the spacing listed in the product instructions. Stake counts are set by the manufacturer and depend on section length and soil conditions, so do not guess.

Why is my edging shifting after installation?

The most common causes are an unstable base, too few stakes, or uneven backfilling. Dig out the affected section, rebuild the base, re-stake, and backfill evenly on both sides.

Can I trim grass right against brickface edging?

Yes, with a string trimmer or edger held at a slight angle. Avoid running the trimmer tip directly against the face for long periods, since repeated contact can scuff the finish over time.

Does brickface edging work for a mulched bed?

It does, as long as the mulch sits a half-inch or so below the top of the edging. Mulch piled above the rim tends to spill onto the lawn during heavy rain.

When should I hire a professional?

If your run involves retaining soil on a slope, crossing utility lines, or working around structures, consult a licensed landscape contractor. Trench digging near buried utilities should always be preceded by a call to your local utility locating service.

Conclusion

A clean edge comes down to planning the line, building a stable base, and checking level as you go. Groundsmart brickface landscape edging rewards that care with crisp, durable borders that hold their shape season after season. Take your time on the trench and the stakes, and the finished result will look intentional from the street.

About Caleb Morgan

Caleb Morgan is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our lawn edging & trimming guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.