Decorative lawn edging does more than mark the boundary between your lawn and garden beds. It creates a crisp, intentional line that pulls the whole landscape together. According to the University of Illinois Extension, edging serves several practical functions: it forms a clean, neat line between planting areas and turf, blends into the landscape, reduces the need for hand trimming, and helps keep mulch contained within beds. Choosing materials that are both attractive and durable is the key to an edge that looks good season after season.
Why decorative edging matters
Rhonda Ferree, horticulture educator with University of Illinois Extension, explains that edging “forms a clean, neat line between planting areas and turf or groundcovers.” When installed properly, it should blend in with the landscape, minimize hand trimming, and help contain mulches within the bed areas. The material used for edging should be long lasting, strong, and complement the rest of your landscape. A well-chosen edge does not draw attention to itself; instead, it quietly defines spaces and makes the whole garden look more polished. For more on how borders shape a garden, see our garden border design article.
Material options for decorative edging
The Illinois Extension provides detailed pointers on common edging materials. The table below summarizes their characteristics, based on Ferree’s advice. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) also notes that installing wood or metal edging helps retain the shape of the edge and makes trimming easier.
| Material | Key Characteristics | Considerations |
|---|---|---|
| Metal (steel, aluminum) | Longest lasting; steel has high side-strength; aluminum is easier to work with. | Steel: expensive, difficult to install, may heave in frost. Aluminum: silver color can look unnatural. Best for areas needing side-strength like driveways. |
| Brick and pavers | Useful and decorative; waterproof if well fired. | Use a sand or concrete base with reinforcing rods for durability. Newer continuous concrete edging with polyolefin fibers resists cracking. |
| Stone | Decorative; should be at least 3 inches thick and 4 inches wide to stop grass. | Heavy; requires a solid base for stability. |
| Plastic | Inexpensive and easy to install initially; most common among homeowners. | Poor durability, artificial look, hardest to keep in ground. Round-top styles sink less; flat types can be stabilized with a 1×1-inch treated wood strip nailed along the bottom. Frost heaving reduced with grooved or lip-style edging and steel stakes. |
| Wood | Natural look; landscape timbers, ties, treated 2x4s stay in place well and create a nice mowing edge. | Reinforce with rebars and toe-nailed corners. Avoid old railroad ties with toxic coatings. |
Each material brings a different balance of cost, labor, and lifespan. Metal edging, for example, is the longest lasting but can be challenging to install and may suffer from frost heaving, according to the Illinois Extension. Plastic is the most common choice because it is inexpensive and easy to handle, yet it often fails to stay in the ground and has an artificial appearance. For a deeper look at all material types, visit our lawn edging types page.
Hand-cut edges: a natural decorative option
Both the Illinois Extension and the RHS describe how to create a hand-cut edge that requires no added material. Ferree says that beds can be edged by hand, though it is hard work and must be touched up once or twice a year. She particularly likes the look of a hand-edged bed. An edging area 4 inches deep and wide can easily contain bluegrass. Start by using a sharp spade to cut an edge, then remove the soil and grass to form a small cliff. You can leave it hand-edged or fill the space with a solid material like steel, wood, brick, stone, or plastic.
The RHS advises using a half-moon edger or a flat-backed spade marked at a depth of 7.5 cm (3 in) to cut along a marked line. For straight edges, use a string line; for curves, a garden hose or rope works well. Broad, sweeping curves are easier to maintain than intricate shapes. After cutting, remove narrow strips of grass, and check the line from both ends and from an upstairs window to ensure it looks even. A well-defined drop of about 7.5 cm (3 in) from lawn to border helps keep mulching material in place. For step-by-step installation guidance, see our edging installation section.
Keeping edges looking good over time
The RHS recommends redefining edges with a half-moon edging tool at any time of year, though it is often a good winter job if the soil is not wet. Create a drop of about 7.5 cm (3 in) from lawn to border to keep plants off the grass and grass out of the border. Trim edges regularly with edging shears after each mow, holding the shears upright so the blades are beside the lawn edge. Work along the edge with small sideways steps, slightly overlapping cuts. Rake up cut grass for composting or flick short sections into the border to rot down. Sharp shears give a clean cut and make the task easier, the RHS notes. Hand-edged beds, as Ferree points out, will need touching up once or twice a year to stay neat. Regular attention to edges also helps prevent weeds from creeping in; learn more on our lawn maintenance page.
Safety before you dig
Any project that involves digging for edging, whether installing a new border or re-cutting an edge, requires a call to 811. The national before-you-dig service, 811, states that you should contact 811 or your state 811 center’s website a few business days before you begin any digging. This includes common projects like planting trees and shrubs or installing fences and mailboxes. The service is free, and it arranges for the approximate location of buried utilities to be marked with paint or flags. According to 811, not contacting 811 is the top cause of damage to buried utilities each year. Even shallow digging can hit utilities that are buried just inches below the surface, so every digging project, regardless of depth, requires advance notice. After utilities have marked their lines, dig carefully around the marks and consider relocating projects that are close to buried utilities.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most durable decorative edging material?
According to the University of Illinois Extension, metal edging, including steel and aluminum, is the longest lasting. Steel edgings have been around for more than 30 years. However, steel can be difficult to install and may heave in frost, while aluminum’s silver color can look unnatural in many landscapes.
How often should I redefine a hand-cut edge?
The Illinois Extension notes that hand-edged beds must be touched up once or twice a year. The RHS adds that redefining a lawn edge annually makes trimming the edge easier, and you can use a half-moon edging tool at any time of year when the soil is workable.
Do I need to call 811 for a small edging project?
Yes. The 811 service emphasizes that every digging project, regardless of depth, requires contacting 811 a few business days in advance. Some utilities are buried just inches below the surface, and even a shovel can cause damage. The service is free and helps you avoid costly and dangerous utility strikes.
For more ideas on decorative edging, visit our decorative edging page.
