Caleb MorganBy Caleb Morgan

Updated November 2026

Vigoro pound-in landscape edging is a lightweight plastic or metal border strip that you hammer into the soil to separate your lawn from beds, walkways, and mulch. Done right, it gives you a crisp, durable line that keeps grass out of flower beds and mulch out of the turf, and it can be installed in a single weekend with basic hand tools. This guide walks through planning the route, choosing the right depth and height, driving the stakes, connecting sections, and avoiding the errors that cause edging to heave, bend, or wander out of line.

What Vigoro Pound-In Edging Is Good At (and Where It Falls Short)

Pound-in edging is designed for shallow, low-profile borders rather than structural retaining walls. Its strength is speed: you can run a long straight or gently curved line without digging a trench, and you can reposition it later if your beds change shape. The trade-off is that the material is thin, so it relies on the surrounding soil to hold it in place. In clay soil that stays moist, the hold is generally strong. In loose sand or very wet ground, the strip can lean or sink unless you add stakes more closely together.

Shopping for one? See our guide: 6 Best Pound in Landscape Edgings for Clean Lawn Lines (2026).

Before you buy, measure the total run you need and plan for a few extra feet to handle corners, cuts, and a bit of waste. Pound-in products are typically sold in set lengths, and matching the length to your layout reduces the number of joints, which are the most common weak spots.

Tools and Materials You Need

You do not need specialty equipment, but having the right items on hand will keep the job moving:

  • The edging strips and the stakes or spikes that come with them (confirm the count matches the packaging instructions)
  • A rubber mallet or a dead-blow hammer to avoid damaging the edging top
  • A string line, two stakes, and a tape measure for laying out a straight run
  • A garden hose or spray paint for marking curves before you commit
  • A flat spade or half-moon edger for pre-cutting soil where needed
  • A rake and a bag of play sand or fine soil for filling gaps and leveling
  • Work gloves and safety glasses, since stakes can splinter or fly when struck

Step-by-Step: Installing Vigoro Pound-In Landscape Edging

Step 1: Mark the Route

Lay the hose along the planned border and adjust it until the curve looks natural from several viewpoints, including the house window and the walkway. For straight runs, set a string line between two stakes, keeping it about an inch outside where the finished edge will sit. Check the line with a tape measure at both ends to confirm it is parallel to the bed or walkway.

Step 2: Clear the Strip and Pre-Cut the Soil

Remove sod, weeds, and debris along the route. Use a flat spade to cut a shallow groove that matches the height of the edging, usually a few inches deep, so the top of the strip sits level with or slightly above the turf. Keep the groove a little narrower than the strip so the soil grips the edge once it is backfilled.

Step 3: Set the Edging in the Groove

Position the strip in the groove with the flat face toward the bed and the top at your target height. Most homeowners aim for the top to sit about half an inch to one inch above grade on the lawn side, which keeps mowers from scalping the edge while still keeping grass from creeping over it. Check the height every few feet with a level or a straight board.

Step 4: Drive the Stakes

Drive the stakes through the pre-punched holes or along the outside face at the spacing given in the manufacturer’s instructions. Work with a rubber mallet, striking squarely and slowly, and stop when the stake head is just below the top of the strip. Driving too hard can crack plastic, bend metal, or pull the strip out of alignment. If a stake hits a rock, pull it, move it a few inches, and try again rather than forcing it.

Step 5: Connect and Align the Sections

Where two pieces meet, overlap or join them according to the product design, and make sure the top edges line up without a step. Re-check alignment with the string line after each joint. For tight curves, you may need to cut the strip with tin snips or a fine-tooth saw. Smooth any sharp cut edges so they do not snag a mower or trimmer.

Step 6: Backfill and Compact

Fill the groove on the bed side with soil or sand and tamp it lightly with the back of a rake or your hand. Backfilling on both sides stabilizes the strip. Do not pack the soil so hard that it pushes the top up. Water the area lightly afterward to settle the soil.

Step 7: Check and Finish

Walk the entire line and look for waves, twists, or gaps. Press down on any section that rocks, and drive an extra stake if needed. Rake mulch or soil back to the finished line so the edge looks clean, and run your mower or trimmer along the border to confirm it cuts smoothly.

Spacing, Depth, and Height Reference

Exact figures vary by product, so always follow the manufacturer’s specifications. The table below gives general planning ranges that many installers use as a starting point.

Factor Typical Planning Range Why It Matters
Stake spacing Roughly every 12 to 24 inches, closer on curves Tighter spacing resists bending and heaving
Installed height above grade About 0.5 to 1 inch Stops grass creep while allowing mower clearance
Groove depth Shallow, matched to strip height Keeps the strip seated and level
Soil type adjustment Add stakes in sandy or wet soil Loose soil gives less lateral support

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Skipping the string line. Eyeballing a long run almost always produces a wobble that is obvious once the grass is cut.
  • Setting the top too high. A strip sitting well above the lawn catches mower wheels and makes trimming awkward.
  • Burying the top. If soil or mulch covers the edge, the line disappears and grass can grow right over it.
  • Using too few stakes. Saving a few stakes often leads to bowing within one season.
  • Driving stakes at an angle. Angled stakes pull the strip sideways and crack the joints.
  • Ignoring drainage. A continuous barrier can dam water on one side, so check that runoff can still flow away from the house.

Tips for Long-Lasting Results

  • Install in mild weather when the soil is moist but not saturated, which makes driving stakes easier.
  • Check the line after the first heavy rain and tap down any stakes that have lifted.
  • Keep mulch a few inches away from the edge so mower and trimmer discharge does not bury it.
  • Trim grass along the strip with a string trimmer held at a slight angle so the line stays clean without scuffing the material.
  • Sharpen the blade on your edger each season if you use one along the border, since dull blades tear turf instead of cutting it cleanly.

A few supplies make installation smoother and help the border look sharp for years. A rubber mallet protects the strip while you set stakes, and a half-moon edger gives you clean vertical cuts along the lawn side. A tape measure and a string line keep the run straight, and a pair of tin snips handles trimming on curves. For ongoing maintenance, a string trimmer with an edging head lets you keep the line crisp between seasons: View on Amazon, View on Amazon, View on Amazon, View on Amazon.

FAQ

Can I install vigoro pound-in edging over existing grass?

You can, but results are better if you cut a shallow groove first. Installing directly on sod often leaves a bumpy line and gives grass a path to grow over the top.

How far apart should the stakes be?

Most products call for stakes roughly every 12 to 24 inches. Use a tighter spacing on curves, in sandy soil, or anywhere the strip shows any tendency to lean.

Will pound-in edging stop grass from spreading?

It creates a physical barrier that slows most lawn grasses, but runners and rhizomes can sometimes push under or around a strip over time. Periodic trimming along the line keeps encroachment under control.

Can I cut the edging to length?

Yes. Use tin snips for thin metal or a fine-tooth saw for plastic, then smooth the cut end. Always check the manufacturer guidance first, since some products are not designed to be cut.

Why did my edging heave after winter?

Freeze-thaw cycles push soil up and can lift shallow stakes. Re-seat the strip in spring, tap down the stakes, and consider adding a stake at any section that moved.

Should I set the edging higher to keep mulch in?

Setting the top slightly above grade on the bed side helps contain mulch, but do not raise it so high that it catches mower wheels. Keep the lawn-side height low, around half an inch to one inch above grade.

How do I remove the edging later?

Pull the stakes first, then loosen the strip by working it back and forth gently. Refill the groove with soil and tamp it down.

Is pound-in edging suitable for curved beds?

Yes, especially for gentle to moderate curves. Use more stakes and mark the curve with a hose before installing so the line flows smoothly.

Conclusion

With careful layout, correct height, and enough stakes, vigoro pound-in landscape edging gives you a clean, durable line in a single afternoon. Pay attention to soil conditions and check the line after the first season to catch any early movement. Pair the border with regular trimming and you will keep your beds and lawn looking sharp for years.

Ready to choose one?

Caleb Morgan

About Caleb Morgan

Caleb Morgan is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our lawn edging & trimming guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.