Caleb MorganBy Caleb Morgan

Updated November 2026

Groundsmart curb landscape edging is a molded, curb-style border that separates your lawn from beds, paths, and mulch. Once it is installed on a firm, level base, it holds a crisp line for years and keeps grass roots and bed material where they belong. This guide walks you through planning, base preparation, placement, joining, backfilling, and finishing, so you can get a clean result on your first attempt.

What You Need Before You Start

Most of the work is in preparation. Gather your materials and tools before you cut the first piece of sod, because stopping mid-trench to hunt for a level or a stake leads to uneven sections.

Shopping for one? See our guide: 5 Best Concrete Curb Landscape Edging Options for Clean Lines (2026).

  • Groundsmart curb-style edging sections, plus a few extra pieces for cuts and corners
  • A flat spade or sod cutter for trenching
  • A garden hose or marking paint to trace the line
  • Wooden stakes (about 12 inches long) and string line
  • A 4-foot level and a torpedo level for short runs
  • A hand tamper or plate compactor for the base
  • Crushed stone or road base (3/4-inch minus works well) for a gravel base
  • Landscape fabric, if you want weed control along the edge
  • A hacksaw or a fine-tooth saw for trimming pieces to length
  • Exterior-grade screws or the connector hardware specified by the manufacturer
  • Gloves, eye protection, and a tape measure

Step 1: Plan the Line and Mark It

Lay out the curve or straight run before you dig. Use a garden hose for curves, since it lets you adjust the shape while you look at it from several angles. For straight runs, snap a chalk line or set stakes with string.

Keep Curves Smooth

Avoid tight radii on a curb-style product. Gentle, sweeping curves look better and are easier to follow with the edging pieces. Sharp turns are better handled by a short run of straight pieces with a corner at each joint.

Check the Height Above Grade

Decide how much of the curb should show. For most lawns, a visible height of about 1 to 2 inches above the finished soil or mulch level looks clean and still works as a barrier for mowers. Mark that height on your stakes so you can keep the top edge consistent.

Step 2: Dig the Trench to the Right Depth

A good trench does most of the work. Dig along your marked line so the bottom is wide enough to seat the edging and the base material on both sides.

  1. Cut the sod along the line with a spade or sod cutter, keeping the cut straight.
  2. Remove the sod and dig down to a depth that leaves room for the base layer plus the buried portion of the edging.
  3. Widen the trench slightly on each side so you can work the base material in and tamp it.
  4. Check the bottom for roots, rocks, and soft spots, and remove them.

As a general guide, many installers dig enough depth to bury roughly one-third to one-half of the edging height, then add about 2 to 3 inches of compacted base beneath it. Confirm the exact burial depth against the manufacturer’s instructions for your specific profile.

Step 3: Build a Firm, Level Base

The base determines whether your edging stays straight. Soft soil lets the curb settle unevenly, and frost or irrigation can push sections out of line.

Add and Compact the Base Material

Spread crushed stone in layers of about 2 inches, then tamp each layer thoroughly before adding the next. Compact until the base feels firm underfoot and does not shift when you press on it with a boot.

Set the Grade

Use your level and a straight board across the trench to check that the base runs at a consistent slope, typically a slight fall away from beds so water drains away from the curb. Adjust with more base material or by tamping down high spots.

Step 4: Set the Edging Sections

Place the first piece at one end of the run and check its height against your stake line. Set each following section so the top edges line up, then check the whole run with string before you backfill.

Join Pieces Securely

Connect sections using the joints or hardware specified for the product. Make sure joints are tight and that adjacent pieces sit flush. Slight gaps at joints can let soil or mulch migrate into the lawn, so press each connection firmly together.

Cut and Fit Pieces

Measure carefully before cutting. Mark on the face you want to show, cut with a fine-tooth saw, and smooth the cut edge so it fits snugly against the next section. Cut ends that will sit against the lawn should face away from view where possible.

Step 5: Check Alignment and Height

Before backfilling, walk the entire run and sight along the top edge. Look for high or low spots, kinks, and misaligned joints. A torpedo level laid across the top of each section catches small height differences that the eye can miss.

  • Top edge is consistent in height along the whole run
  • Sections are flush at every joint
  • Curves flow smoothly without visible flat spots or kinks
  • Edging is seated firmly and does not rock when pressed

Step 6: Backfill and Finish

Backfill with soil, compacted gently in layers, so the curb is supported on both sides. Pack the soil on the bed side and the lawn side, but do not push so hard that you shift the sections out of line. Water lightly to settle the soil, then re-check alignment.

If you are using landscape fabric, lay it along the bed side before adding mulch so weeds have a harder time pushing up along the curb. Trim the fabric flush with the top of the edging. Re-sod or seed the lawn side up to the curb, keeping the grass edge close to the top for a tidy line.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Skipping base compaction. Soft soil is the most common reason curbs heave or sag after a few seasons.
  • Setting sections without a string line. Small height differences add up and look obvious once mulch and grass are in place.
  • Leaving gaps at joints. Soil and mulch will work through, and the line will look unfinished.
  • Backfilling too aggressively. Heavy tamping on the sides can push the curb out of line.
  • Setting the top edge too high. A very tall curb can interfere with mowing and trimming, so keep the visible height moderate.
  • Ignoring drainage. A bed that holds water against the curb can push the edging over time.

Tips for a Cleaner Result

Install in cool, dry weather when the soil is workable but not frozen or waterlogged. Work from one end to the other rather than jumping between sections. Keep a spare piece of edging on hand for future repairs, since matching a discontinued profile later can be difficult. Finally, edge your lawn after installation as well: a string trimmer or lawn edger used along the curb helps keep grass from creeping over the top. For more on trimming technique along hard edges, see the trimming guides on this site.

Tools that help most with this type of install are a sturdy spade or sod cutter for clean trenches and a plate compactor or hand tamper for a solid base. A long level and a torpedo level make alignment checks faster and more accurate.

  • Flat spade: Gives clean, straight trench walls and makes sod removal easier. View on Amazon
  • Hand tamper: Compacts base layers in small areas where a plate compactor will not fit. View on Amazon
  • Torpedo level: Checks height across the top of each edging section. View on Amazon
  • Fine-tooth hacksaw: Cuts edging pieces cleanly to length for corners and ends. View on Amazon

FAQ

Do I need a gravel base under groundsmart curb landscape edging?

A compacted gravel base is strongly recommended, especially in clay or wet soil. It keeps the curb level and reduces heaving and settling. Follow the manufacturer’s guidance on base depth for your conditions.

How high should the edging stand above the soil?

Many lawns look best with the top of the curb about 1 to 2 inches above the finished bed or lawn surface. Higher profiles can get in the way of mowing, so keep the visible height moderate.

Can I install curb edging in a curve?

Yes. Use a garden hose to lay out the curve first, then install in short, consistent sections. Gentle curves are much easier to keep smooth than tight radii.

How do I join two sections of edging?

Use the connectors or joint method specified for the product, and press pieces firmly together so they sit flush. Check the joint with a level before backfilling.

Can I install the edging without digging a trench?

A full trench gives the most stable result, since it supports the base and buried portion of the curb. Shallow or no-dig methods are possible for some products, but they are more likely to shift over time.

Should I use landscape fabric behind the edging?

Landscape fabric on the bed side can slow weeds from creeping through along the curb. It does not replace a proper base, and it works best when trimmed flush with the top of the edging.

How do I keep grass from growing over the top?

Trim along the curb regularly with a string trimmer or edger, and keep the grass edge close to the top. Good backfilling and a clean sod line at installation also make a large difference.

Conclusion

A clean groundsmart curb landscape edging line comes from careful planning, a compacted base, and precise alignment. Take time to set the height and check every joint before backfilling. With those steps done, the border will hold its line, keep beds and lawns separate, and look sharp season after season.

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Caleb Morgan

About Caleb Morgan

Caleb Morgan is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our lawn edging & trimming guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.