Lawn edging does two jobs: it keeps grass from creeping into beds and paths, and it gives the garden a clean outline that makes the whole space look cared for. The material you choose decides how visible the edge is, how long it lasts, how much work it is to install and how easy it is to mow and trim along. This guide compares the common options, from a simple hand-cut edge to steel and brick. It is based on installation guidance from horticultural organisations and manufacturers; we do not rank brands or quote prices.
Quick comparison
| Material | Look | Durability | Install effort | Mowing | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Natural cut edge (no material) | Clean, traditional | Needs re-cutting regularly | Low | Trim with shears or edger | Any garden; lowest cost |
| Steel or aluminium strip | Thin, nearly invisible line | High | Moderate | Mow along it; keep the top below blade height | Crisp curves and modern designs |
| Plastic or composite strip | Low-profile; can look cheap if exposed | Moderate; can heave or lift | Low to moderate | Mow along it if set low | Budget projects, gentle curves |
| Rubber (recycled) | Soft, often wider band | Moderate | Low | Mow over flat versions | Play areas, flexible borders |
| Brick or pavers | Classic; can form a mowing strip | High with a good base | High | Mow over a flush mowing strip | Formal gardens, paths, driveways |
| Natural stone | Rustic or formal | High | High (heavy) | Harder to trim around raised stones | Informal borders, raised beds |
| Wood (timber boards or logs) | Natural, warm | Varies; rots over time unless suitably treated or durable | Moderate | Mow along it | Vegetable beds, rustic styles |
Natural cut edges
The simplest edge is a cut in the soil itself. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) describes cutting along a string line or hose with a half-moon edger or a flat-backed spade to a depth of about 7.5 cm (3 in), and notes that a well-defined edge with a drop down to the border helps keep mulch in place. The trade-off is maintenance: the RHS recommends trimming edges after each mow and redefining them once a year. See natural borders.
Metal edging
Steel (including weathering steel) and aluminium edging come as thin strips held in place with stakes. They create crisp lines and smooth curves, last a long time and almost disappear from view. Points to check:
- Height above ground: set the top just above soil level so the mower can pass without hitting it.
- Edge profile: rolled or capped top edges are safer for bare feet and children than raw cut edges.
- Joins and stakes: overlapping or connector systems keep lines continuous.
- Finish: galvanised, powder-coated or weathering steel each look and age differently.
See metal edging.
Plastic, composite and rubber edging
Plastic strip edging is inexpensive and easy to bend into curves. Its common weakness is lifting: if not staked well and backfilled firmly, frost and soil movement push it up over time. Composite and heavier plastic products resist this better. Rubber edging, often made from recycled tyres, is flexible and soft, which suits play areas, but check product information for outdoor use and any odour when new. See plastic edging and rubber edging.
Brick and paver edging
Bricks or pavers set flush with the lawn create a “mowing strip”: one mower wheel rides on the strip, cutting the grass edge cleanly and reducing trimming. Brick edging needs a compacted, level base (typically crushed stone and sand) or a mortar bed to stay in line; otherwise individual bricks settle and tilt. Use bricks or pavers rated for exterior use in your climate, since some absorb water and crack in freeze-thaw cycles. See brick edging.
Natural stone edging
Stone suits both rustic and formal designs, from irregular fieldstone to cut granite setts. It is durable but heavy to move and set: lift with your legs, get help for large pieces and wear gloves and sturdy footwear. Raised stones create a trimming line that a mower cannot reach, so plan on using a trimmer or shears. See stone edging.
Wood edging
Timber boards and log rolls look natural and are easy to work, but untreated wood in soil contact rots. Choose naturally durable species or lumber treated for ground contact, and follow treated-wood handling advice. Wood suits raised vegetable beds and informal borders.
How to choose
| Priority | Consider |
|---|---|
| Lowest upfront cost | Natural cut edge or plastic strip |
| Least ongoing trimming | Flush brick or paver mowing strip |
| Clean modern curves | Steel or aluminium strip |
| Traditional or cottage look | Natural cut edge, brick or stone |
| Play areas | Rubber or capped metal edging |
| DIY with few tools | Plastic, rubber or metal strip edging |
Installation steps for each are in our lawn edging installation guide, tools in lawn edging tools, and design ideas in garden border design.
Maintenance by material
- Natural edges: trim after mowing and re-cut yearly.
- Strip edging: check each spring for lifting and re-stake; top up soil behind it.
- Brick and stone: reset settled pieces; pull weeds from joints.
- Wood: check for rot and replace sections as needed.
Our lawn edge maintenance guide covers this through the seasons. All edging type guides are under Lawn Edging Types.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need edging at all?
No. A well-cut natural edge works in any garden. Edging materials reduce how often you need to re-cut the line and help keep mulch and gravel in place.
How deep should lawn edging go?
Deep enough to stop grass roots running under it and to hold it firmly; follow the product’s instructions. For a natural cut edge, the RHS suggests about 7.5 cm (3 in).
Which edging lasts the longest?
Well-installed metal, brick and stone edging typically outlast plastic and untreated wood. Installation quality matters as much as the material: a poor base or too few stakes shortens the life of any edging.
