Most lawn edging installs follow the same sequence regardless of material: plan and call 811, mark the line, cut a trench, set the edging, secure it and backfill. The details change for strip edging, brick and stone, and between straight and curved lines. This guide walks through the general method, then the differences by material and location. It is based on guidance from the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), the national 811 service and manufacturer instructions; follow the instructions supplied with your edging product.
Before you start
- Choose the material (see lawn edging materials compared) and buy 10% extra for curves and mistakes.
- Check the soil: the RHS advises against working waterlogged soil, which compacts. Very dry, hard soil is difficult to cut; water it the day before.
- Gather tools: string line and stakes or a hose, marking paint, half-moon edger or spade, mallet, level; a tamper for brick or pavers. See lawn edging tools.
- Wear gloves and sturdy shoes; eye protection when cutting metal edging.
Step 1: Mark the line
For straight edges, the RHS describes running a taut string between two pegs at ground level; on long runs, hold it down with the tines of a fork. For curves, lay a hose or rope and adjust it until the shape looks right, ideally viewed from an upstairs window. The RHS notes that broad, sweeping curves are easier to maintain than intricate shapes. Mark the final line with paint or sand. See straight edges and curved edges.
Step 2: Cut the edge
Work from one end. Push a half-moon edger or flat-backed spade straight down along the line, overlapping each cut slightly for a continuous edge. The RHS suggests a depth of about 7.5 cm (3 in) for a cut edge. Lift the strip of turf by sliding the spade underneath, then walk the line and check it from both ends.
Step 3: Dig the trench
For strip edging, dig a narrow trench along the cut deep enough for the edging to sit with its top just above the soil (follow the product’s recommended depth). For bricks and pavers, dig wider and deeper to allow for a compacted base. Keep the lawn side of the trench vertical.
Step 4: Set the edging
Metal and plastic strip edging
- Place the strip in the trench, lawn side vertical.
- Join sections as the manufacturer directs (overlaps or connectors).
- Drive stakes at the spacing given in the instructions, more closely on curves.
- Check the height: just above soil level so the mower clears it.
- Backfill both sides and firm the soil well; loose backfill is the main reason strip edging lifts.
Brick and paver edging
- Add a layer of crushed stone and compact it, then a thin layer of sand, levelling as you go.
- Set bricks or pavers on the base, tapping them down with a rubber mallet.
- Check level along the run and across each unit with a level and straightedge.
- For a mowing strip, set the top flush with the lawn so a mower wheel can ride on it.
- Fill joints with sand or mortar as the design requires and backfill behind.
Natural stone
Bed stones partly into the soil or onto a compacted base so they do not rock. Lift with your legs, get help with heavy pieces and avoid pinching fingers between stones.
Step 5: Finish and tidy
- Firm the soil on the lawn side and reseed or patch any gaps.
- Mulch the bed side; the EPA’s WaterSense programme suggests a mulch depth of about three to four inches for most plants, kept a few inches from trunks.
- Water newly disturbed soil to help it settle.
Installation by location
| Location | Considerations |
|---|---|
| Garden beds | Leave a drop to the bed to hold mulch; curves suit informal beds. See garden bed borders. |
| Driveways | Edging must not interfere with vehicle tyres or snow clearing; a flush strip or a cut edge maintained with a power edger often works best. See driveway edges. |
| Paths and walkways | Keep edging flush or rounded to avoid trip hazards. See pathway edges. |
Common problems
| Problem | Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Strip edging lifting | Too few stakes; loose backfill; frost heave | Re-stake more closely; compact backfill |
| Grass growing under the edging | Edging too shallow | Reset deeper or add a root barrier |
| Bricks sinking or tilting | Poor base | Lift, compact a proper base and reset |
| Mower scalping or hitting the edge | Edging set too high | Lower it to just above the soil |
| Wobbly curves | Too few stakes on bends | Add stakes; use flexible products for tight curves |
Frequently asked questions
Do I really need to call 811 for shallow edging?
The 811 service states that every digging project, regardless of depth, requires contacting 811 a few days in advance. Utility lines can be shallower than expected, and calling is free.
What is the best time of year to install edging?
Spring or autumn, when soil is moist but not waterlogged. The RHS notes that redefining edges can be done at any time of year, but working waterlogged soil compacts it.
Can I install edging along an existing bed without lifting plants?
Usually yes. Cut the new line, dig a narrow trench and set strip edging; take care near shallow roots and move plants that sit right on the line.
Keeping the new edge sharp is covered in lawn edge maintenance. All installation guides are under Installation Guides.
Time and effort
Cutting and setting strip edging along a typical bed is usually a day’s work for one person, including marking and backfilling. Brick and stone edging take longer because of the base preparation and levelling. Spread heavy digging over several sessions and take breaks; lifting turf and stone is strenuous.
