Creating a crisp, clean line where your lawn meets a paved pathway does more than improve the look of your garden: it stops grass from creeping over the paving and makes mowing and trimming much simpler. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) notes that a well-defined lawn edge with a decent drop down to the border helps keep mulching material in place and prevents lawn grasses from encroaching into adjacent areas. Whether you are working with a straight concrete path or a gently curving walkway, the same basic principles apply: plan the line, cut the edge, and maintain it regularly.
Planning the edge line beside a path
The RHS advises starting at one end of the area to be edged, such as where the lawn meets a patio or fence. For a straight edge along a path, tie a string line taut between two canes or pegs at ground level. If the edge is long, you can hold the string down by pushing the tines of a hand or border fork either side of it. For a curved edge, use something flexible like a garden hose, rope, or string to mark the shape. The RHS recommends viewing the marked-out edge from various angles, including from an upstairs window, to check the whole shape before you start cutting. Broad, sweeping curves are easier to maintain than intricate shapes, so keep the design simple if you want a low-maintenance edge.
Cutting a clean edge by hand
Once the line is set, the RHS suggests using a half-moon edging tool or a flat-backed spade. Insert the blade into the ground, standing on the flattened top of the half-moon tool to push it fully in. If you are using a spade, mark a depth of 7.5 cm (3 in) on the blade with tape and insert it to that depth. Work your way along the line in small steps, overlapping each cut slightly to create a continuous edge. After cutting, go back and pull up narrow strips of grass by hand. For larger pieces, slide a spade underneath to lift them. The RHS says you can compost the unwanted grass or stack it separately to rot down into soil.
Using a power edger along sidewalks and paths
A cordless power edger can speed up the job along long straight paths. The Lawnmaster 21V cordless edger manual explains that the tool is designed for use along sidewalks, driveways, flower beds, curbs, and similar areas. It instructs operators to cut at a steady pace: if the blade begins to bog down, you are edging too fast. Do not force the blade into the ground. The manual includes important safety rules: always wear eye protection, non-slip safety shoes, and hearing protection. Keep children and bystanders at least 15 m away from the work area. Remove debris such as small stones, gravel, and wires before starting, and never operate the edger in wet conditions. The blade stops when you release the trigger, but always remove the battery before inspecting or changing the blade. The manual also notes that the edger should only be used with the supplied battery and charger, and that the battery should be charged in temperatures between 10 °C and 38 °C.
If you own a different model, always follow the safety warnings and operating instructions in your tool’s manual. For more on choosing and using power edgers, see our power edgers guide.
Installing physical edging along a pathway
While a hand-cut edge can look neat, installing a solid edging material helps retain the shape and makes trimming easier. Rhonda Ferree, Horticulture Educator with University of Illinois Extension, explains that edging forms a clean, neat line between planting areas and turf, and when installed properly it should blend in, minimize hand trimming, and contain mulches. She describes several material options that work well beside paths.
Metal edging, including steel and aluminum, is the longest lasting. Steel edgings have been used for more than 30 years and are suitable where a great deal of side-strength is required, such as driveway work, but they can be difficult to install and may suffer from frost heaving in winter. Aluminum is easier to work with, though its silver color may appear unnatural in many landscapes. Brick, stone, and concrete make useful and decorative edging. Ferree advises that brick or pavers should be well fired so they are waterproof. Stone should be at least 3 inches thick and at least 4 inches wide to stop grass from spreading. A sand or concrete base with reinforcing rods adds durability. Wood edging, such as landscape timbers or treated 2x4s, provides a natural look and creates a nice mowing edge. Avoid old railroad ties coated with materials toxic to plants. Plastic edging is inexpensive and easy to install but has poor durability and an artificial appearance. Ferree notes that of all materials, plastic is probably the hardest to install for a lasting, stable edge. If you use flat plastic types, nailing a 1 x 1 inch strip of treated wood along the bottom can help stabilize it. For more on material choices, visit our lawn edging materials comparison.
Trimming and maintaining the edge after mowing
The RHS recommends trimming lawn edges regularly, ideally after each time you mow the lawn. Use edging shears held upright so the blades are beside the lawn edge. Keep the handle attached to the lower blade steady and move the upper blade handle to cut overhanging grass. Take small sideways steps and slightly overlap cuts to create a neat, crisp edge. After trimming, check for any missed tufts of grass and rake up the clippings for composting. If only short sections have been cut, you can flick them into the border with a hoe to rot down. The RHS also advises redefining the edge with a half-moon edging tool annually, which makes future trimming easier. A drop of about 7.5 cm (3 in) from the lawn surface to the border helps keep plants off the grass and grass out of the border. For more seasonal care tips, see our seasonal lawn maintenance guide.
Safety and preparation before you dig
Any project that involves digging along a pathway requires a call to 811. The 811 before-you-dig service states that you should contact 811 or visit your state 811 center’s website a few business days before you begin any digging, including common projects like planting trees and shrubs or installing fences and mailboxes. You will need to provide the address, county, nearest cross street, the type of project, and the exact area where you plan to dig. After you contact 811, wait a few days for utilities to mark the approximate location of buried lines with paint or flags. Once all utilities have responded, dig carefully around any marks and consider relocating projects that are close to buried utilities. Even shallow digging can hit a utility line, so every project, regardless of depth, requires this step. For more installation guidance, see our full how to install lawn edging article.
Frequently asked questions
How deep should I cut the edge beside a path?
The RHS recommends cutting to a depth of about 7.5 cm (3 in) when using a spade. This creates a clear drop that helps keep grass from spreading onto the paving and makes trimming easier.
Can I use a string trimmer to maintain the edge?
While edging shears give the most precise cut, a string trimmer can also be used to trim overhanging grass along a path. The RHS advises holding shears upright for the best cut, but if you use a trimmer, follow the manufacturer’s safety instructions and keep the line away from the paving to avoid damage. For more on trimmer use, see our string trimmer edging guide.
What is the best material for edging along a pathway?
According to University of Illinois Extension, metal edging is the longest lasting, while brick, stone, and concrete offer a decorative look. Wood gives a natural appearance, and plastic is the least durable. The choice depends on your budget, the look you want, and how much side-strength the edge needs. For a detailed comparison, visit our lawn edging materials page.
For more step-by-step instructions on creating and maintaining edges beside paths, explore our pathway edging installation guide.
