Curved lawn edges bring a soft, natural flow to any garden, breaking up straight lines and guiding the eye through the landscape. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) notes that broad, sweeping curves are far easier to maintain than intricate, tight shapes, making them a practical choice for homeowners who want a neat look without constant upkeep. This guide walks you through planning, cutting, edging and maintaining curved lawn edges that are simple to mow and keep tidy. For more installation guides, visit our Installation Guides section.
Planning Your Curved Lawn Edge
According to the RHS, curved edges create a natural feel and are especially good for breaking up long, rectangular gardens. Before you pick up a tool, decide on the shape. The RHS suggests looking for inspiration in gardening books, online, and during garden visits. Keep in mind that broad, sweeping curves will be much simpler to mow around and trim than a series of small, wavy bends. A gentle arc allows your mower to follow the line without constant turning, and edging shears can glide along it smoothly. For more design ideas, explore our Garden Design section.
Marking the Curve
Once you have a shape in mind, mark it out on the lawn. The RHS recommends using something flexible such as a garden hose, a rope or a piece of string. Lay the hose along the ground to form the curve, adjusting it until you are happy with the line. Step back and view the shape from different angles, including from an upstairs window if possible, to see the whole outline. Make small adjustments until the curve looks balanced. When you are satisfied, you are ready to cut. For more on this step, see our Curved Edges category page.
Cutting and Lifting the Turf
The RHS advises using a half-moon edging tool or a flat-backed spade to cut along the marked line. If you use a spade, mark a depth of 7.5cm (3in) on the blade with tape so you cut to a consistent depth. Insert the blade fully into the ground, standing on the flat top of a half-moon edger to push it down. Work your way along the line, taking small steps and overlapping each cut slightly to create a continuous edge. After cutting, go back and pull up narrow strips of grass by hand. For larger pieces, slide a spade underneath to lift them. The RHS suggests composting the removed turf or stacking it separately to rot down into soil. A sharp spade and a half-moon edger are essential tools for this job; learn more about them in our Manual Edgers guide.
Creating the Edge Drop
A well-defined drop from the lawn down to the border helps keep grass from creeping into beds and stops mulch from spilling onto the lawn. The RHS recommends a drop of about 7.5cm (3in). You can remove excess soil with a spade or draw it away from the edge with a hoe. Rhonda Ferree, horticulture educator with University of Illinois Extension, describes a similar hand-edged bed: cut an edge with a sharp spade, then remove soil and grass to form a small cliff. She notes that an edging area 4 inches deep and wide can easily contain bluegrass.
Choosing Edging Materials for Curves
While a hand-cut edge can look beautiful, installing a physical edging material helps the curve hold its shape over time and reduces trimming work. The RHS states that wood or metal edging helps retain the shape and makes edge trimming easier. For curves, you need a material that can bend smoothly. According to the Illinois Extension, metal edging such as steel and aluminum is the longest lasting. Steel provides great side-strength but can be difficult to install and may heave in frost. Aluminum edging is easier to work with, though its silver color may appear unnatural in some landscapes. Plastic edging is inexpensive and easy to install initially, but Ferree warns that it has poor durability and is often the hardest to keep stable. Round-top plastic edgings resist sinking better than flat types. If you use flat plastic, the Illinois Extension suggests nailing a 1×1-inch strip of treated wood along the bottom of each strip with galvanized nails to help stabilize it. Grooved or lip-style edging combined with steel anchoring stakes can reduce frost heaving. For a natural look, wood edging such as treated 2x4s works well, with rebar and toe-nailed corners for reinforcement. Avoid old railroad ties that may have toxic coatings. Brick and stone are decorative and durable; stone should be at least 3 inches thick and 4 inches wide to block grass. For more on specific materials, see our Plastic Edging and Metal Edging guides.
Installing Edging
Once you have chosen your material, follow the manufacturer’s instructions for installation. Generally, you will set the edging into the trench you have already cut, setting it at the height the manufacturer specifies. The Illinois Extension notes that proper installation procedures, including the use of anchoring stakes, are key to preventing frost heave and keeping the edging in place. For a full walkthrough of the installation process, visit our How to Install Lawn Edging article, which covers both straight and curved edges.
Safety: Contact 811 Before You Dig
Any project that involves digging, even for a shallow lawn edge, requires a call to 811. The 811 before-you-dig service, a free national service in the U.S., states that you should contact 811 or visit your state 811 center’s website a few business days before you start digging. You will need to provide the address, county, nearest cross street, the type of project, and the exact area where you plan to dig. After you make the request, wait a few days for utilities to mark the approximate location of buried lines with paint or flags. Once all lines are marked, dig carefully around the marks and consider moving any part of your project that is too close to a utility. The 811 service emphasizes that even shallow digging can hit buried utilities, and its site warns that even shovels can harm utilities. Always contact 811 before every dig, every time.
Maintaining Curved Edges
Once your curved edge is in place, regular upkeep keeps it looking sharp and makes mowing faster. The RHS advises redefining the edge with a half-moon edging tool annually, which makes trimming easier. You can do this at any time of year, but if your soil is wet, wait until it dries out or work from a wooden board to reduce compaction. After mowing, trim the edge with edging shears. Hold the shears upright with the blades beside the lawn edge, keep the lower handle steady, and move the upper handle to cut overhanging grass. Take small sideways steps and slightly overlap cuts for a clean finish. The RHS recommends raking up the clippings and composting them, or flicking short pieces into the border to rot down. For tall gardeners, long-handled or telescopic edging shears can make the job more comfortable. Keeping shears sharp is essential for a clean cut. For more maintenance tips, see our Weed Prevention guide and the Lawn Maintenance section.
Frequently asked questions
How often should I redefine curved lawn edges?
The RHS suggests redefining lawn edges with a half-moon edging tool annually. Doing so makes trimming easier and keeps the drop crisp. You can redefine edges at any time of year, but avoid working on frozen or very wet ground to prevent soil compaction.
What material works well for a curved lawn edge?
The Illinois Extension notes that aluminum edging is easier to work with for curves than steel, and plastic edging can be used if stabilized properly. Round-top plastic edgings resist sinking, and adding a wood strip along flat plastic can improve stability. Metal edging generally lasts longer, while wood offers a natural look. Choose a material that bends smoothly and suits your landscape style.
Do I really need to call 811 for a small edging project?
Yes. The 811 service states that every digging project, regardless of depth, requires contacting 811 a few business days in advance. Even shallow digging can hit buried utilities, and a shovel can cause damage. The call is free and helps keep you safe.
For more detailed guides on curved lawn edges, including installation and material comparisons, visit our Curved Edges category page.
