Landscape borders do more than separate a lawn from a planting bed. The shape, width and plant choices you make influence how formal or natural the space feels, how much maintenance the edge requires and how well the border holds mulch and resists weeds. Getting these decisions right early on saves time and effort later.

Short version: Straight edges create a formal look, while broad sweeping curves feel natural and are easier to maintain. Choose water-efficient plants matched to your site, support soil health with mulch and aeration, and select an edging material that stays in place and contains the bed. Always contact 811 a few business days before you dig to have underground utilities marked.

Choosing a Shape for Your Landscape Border

According to the Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), the shape you pick sets the tone for the whole garden. Straight edges produce a formal look and give clear definition between lawn and border. Curved edges create a natural feel and are useful for breaking up long, rectangular gardens. The RHS notes that broad, sweeping curves are easier to maintain than intricate curves or complex shapes, so if you want a low-effort edge, keep the lines gentle.

Marking out the shape before you cut helps you visualize the result. The RHS suggests using a string line pulled taut between two canes or pegs for straight edges. For curved edges, lay out a garden hose, rope or string to trace the line. View the marked-out edge from several angles, including from an upstairs window if possible, and adjust until you are happy with the positioning. This step is especially helpful if you are reducing the size of your lawn to increase planting space, which the RHS points out is a common reason for creating a new edge.

Once the shape is set, the RHS recommends cutting along the line with a half-moon edger or a flat-backed spade. For a spade, mark a depth of 7.5 cm (3 in) on the blade with tape and insert it to that depth. Work your way along the line, overlapping cuts slightly to form a continuous edge. After cutting, lift and remove the unwanted grass. The RHS advises composting the turf or stacking it separately to rot down into soil. For more on designing borders that look good and last, see our garden border design guide.

Selecting Plants and Supporting Soil Health

The U.S. EPA’s WaterSense program emphasizes that choosing the right plants, supporting soil health and performing proper maintenance are all keys to a water-smart landscape. Before you pick plants, think about how you use the space. Lawns can be a play area for children or pets, while shrubs and trees provide shade and color. WaterSense suggests a combination: turfgrass for activity, shrubs to form a border, a rain garden to manage runoff and trees for cooling.

WaterSense advises grouping plants with similar water needs into specific “hydrozones.” For example, turf areas and shrub areas should always be in separate zones because their water requirements differ. This approach reduces water use and protects plants from overwatering or underwatering. When selecting plants, look for regionally appropriate, low-water-use and native species. Once established, these plants often need little water beyond normal rainfall and rarely require fertilizer, according to WaterSense.

Soil health is just as important as plant choice. WaterSense recommends having your soil tested for nutrient content, pH, soil composition and organic matter content through a local cooperative extension office or state university. Aerating compacted soil with a simple lawn aerator increases water infiltration and reduces runoff. Adding soil amendments where appropriate can help the soil retain moisture so you do not have to irrigate as often. For more ideas on arranging plants and hardscape, visit our garden design section.

Edging Materials to Define the Border

Rhonda Ferree, a horticulture educator with University of Illinois Extension, explains that landscape edging forms a clean, neat line between planting areas and turf or groundcovers. When installed properly, it should blend in with the landscape, minimize hand trimming and help contain mulches within the bed. Ferree notes that beds can be edged by hand, but it is hard work and must be touched up once or twice a year. A hand-edged bed cut 4 inches deep and wide can easily contain bluegrass, she says. You can leave it as a simple cut edge or fill the space with a solid material.

Ferree provides pointers on common edging materials. Metal edging, including steel and aluminum, is the longest lasting. Steel edgings have been around for more than 30 years but are relatively expensive, difficult to install properly and can suffer from frost heaving in winter. Aluminum is easier to work with, though its silver color may look unnatural in many landscapes. Brick, stone and concrete make useful and decorative edging. Ferree advises that stone should be at least 3 inches thick and at least 4 inches wide to stop grass. A sand or concrete base with reinforcing rods adds durability. Wood edging, such as landscape timbers or treated 2x4s, provides a natural look and creates a nice mowing edge. Plastic edging is inexpensive and easy to install, but Ferree says it has poor durability and an artificial appearance, and it is often the hardest material to keep in the ground. For a deeper comparison of these options, see our lawn edging materials guide.

Mulch and Nonchemical Weed Control

Kansas State University turf and landscape experts identify mulching as the number one nonchemical weed control method for landscape beds. Organic mulches such as large, chunky pine bark or pine needles applied at least 3 inches deep provide reasonable weed control while contributing to soil health as they break down. Hardwood bark can be acceptable, but some species may contain allelopathic chemicals that could damage ornamental plants. The K-State source warns against fine-textured materials like compost and screened bark, which may encourage weed growth.

Inorganic mulches are not ideal, according to the same K-State guidance. Rock mulches can bounce heat back up into plant canopies, contributing to plant decline, and rubber mulches leach zinc and other heavy metals into the soil. Landscape fabric is generally not recommended either. While it can be effective for a short period, weeds often grow on top and through the fabric, and mulch cannot degrade into the soil to improve its health. In windy areas, loose mulch may whip away from beds, leaving the fabric exposed.

K-State also highlights plant selection as a nonchemical weed suppression tool. Dense perennial groundcovers that do not die back completely in winter may shade out some weeds. Examples that grow well in Kansas, drawn from a review by Dr. Chris Marble, include lady’s mantle, catmint, moss phlox, goldenrod and sheep’s burr. Hand weeding and cultivation are always options, though labor-intensive. Thermal weed control using steam, hot water or flame has limited applications and can be dangerous; the K-State source advises using it only as a last resort and with proper training. For more ways to reduce trimming and weeding, explore our low-maintenance lawn borders article.

Safety: Call 811 Before You Dig

Any project that involves cutting into the ground, even a shallow landscape border, requires a call to 811. The national before-you-dig service reminds homeowners and professionals that you should contact 811 or visit your state 811 center’s website a few business days before you begin any digging. This includes common projects like planting trees and shrubs or installing edging. When you call, have the address, county, nearest cross street and the exact area where you plan to dig ready. After you submit a request, wait a few days for utilities to mark the approximate location of buried lines with paint or flags. Once all marks are in place, dig carefully around them and consider relocating any part of the project that falls too close to a utility line. The 811 service emphasizes that even shallow digging can hit utilities buried just inches below the surface, so no project is too small to skip this step.

Frequently asked questions

What shape of landscape border is easiest to maintain?

The Royal Horticultural Society states that broad, sweeping curves are easier to maintain than intricate curves or complex shapes. Straight edges also work well and create a formal look, but gentle curves reduce the need for precise trimming around tight corners.

How deep should mulch be in a landscape border?

Kansas State University recommends applying organic mulch at least 3 inches deep for effective weed control. The EPA’s WaterSense program suggests a depth of three to four inches for most plants, while cautioning that excessive mulch can restrict water flow to roots.

Do I really need to call 811 for a small garden border?

Yes. The 811 service advises contacting them a few business days before any digging, no matter how shallow. Some utilities are buried just inches below the surface, and even a shovel can cause damage. Calling 811 helps you avoid hitting gas, electric or water lines.

For more landscape border ideas, visit our Landscape Borders page.

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