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Hammering in landscape edging is one of the most direct ways to set a clean, durable border between your lawn and your beds. In this guide you will learn how to plan your line, choose the right stakes and edging, drive everything to the correct depth, and check your work so the edge stays straight through freezes, mowing, and heavy rain. The method works for most flexible and rigid strip edging, including steel, aluminum, and plastic.

What You Need Before You Start

Hammer-in edging is a fairly simple job, but it goes much faster and looks better when you have the right supplies on hand. Gather everything before you dig a single inch, because stopping halfway to find a level or a second stake wastes time and can leave you with a line that wanders.

Shopping for one? See our guide: 10 Best Edging Tools for Yard Options for Clean Lawn Lines (2026).

  • Landscape edging strips, sized to your bed (most residential products run about 4 to 10 feet per length, so plan your count)
  • Edging stakes matched to the strip’s design, usually 12 to 18 inches long
  • A rubber mallet or a dead-blow hammer (a steel hammer can dent aluminum and steel stakes)
  • A garden hose, marking paint, or landscape spray paint for laying out the line
  • A flat spade or half-moon edger for trenching if the strip sits below grade
  • A tape measure and a four-foot level
  • Gloves and knee pads, since most of the work is done kneeling

Check the manufacturer’s installation sheet for the stake spacing and insertion depth that match your product. Those numbers vary by brand, and following them avoids a lot of guesswork.

Step 1: Lay Out Your Edge Line

Before you hammer anything, define exactly where the edging will sit. A clean line is more about planning than about technique.

Mark a Straight or Curved Path

For a straight run, snap a chalk line or use a string tied between two stakes, then mark the centerline with spray paint every foot or so. For curves, lay a garden hose in the shape you want and walk around it, checking that the curve flows smoothly. Avoid tight kinks in flexible strip, because they make the material buckle and can be hard to correct once the stakes are down.

Check the Line Visually and Physically

Step back from several angles. Lines that look straight at ground level often look wavy from a window. Adjust the paint marks until the path looks right from the places you actually view the yard most.

Step 2: Trench to the Right Depth

Most strip edging sits with its top edge slightly above the soil or turf, so you need a shallow trench that matches the strip’s height. Cutting the trench to the correct depth is what keeps the edging stable and prevents it from popping up.

  • Cut the trench along your paint line with a flat spade or half-moon edger.
  • Dig deep enough that the strip sits with its top roughly 1/2 to 1 inch above grade, unless your product’s instructions say otherwise.
  • Keep the trench walls vertical on the bed side so the strip stays upright.
  • Remove rocks and roots that could push the strip out of line later.

If your soil is heavy clay, the trench may hold water and soften the base. In that case, a thin layer of gravel in the bottom gives the stakes something firmer to grip.

Step 3: Set the Edging Strip in Place

Lay each length of strip into the trench, pressing it firmly against the soil. Butt the ends together cleanly. Most products have an interlocking or overlapping joint that is designed to be hidden under the first stake, so follow the joint style in your kit.

Check alignment as you go. Use your four-foot level across the top edge in short sections, and sight down the run from one end. A strip that drifts even a quarter inch over ten feet will be obvious once the bed is mulched.

Step 4: Hammer in the Stakes

This is the core of the job. Stakes hold the strip against lateral pressure from soil, roots, and frost heave, so their placement and depth matter.

Choose Your Stake Spacing

Most manufacturers recommend stakes every 12 to 24 inches along straight runs and closer spacing on tight curves. Place stakes at every joint, and add one on each side of a curve’s apex where the strip is under the most tension. Using extra stakes costs little time and noticeably reduces movement.

Drive the Stake Straight

Set the stake on the outside of the strip (the side facing the lawn, in most designs) at the marked point. Start with a few light taps to seat it, then check that it sits perpendicular to the strip. Drive it with steady, even blows until the stake’s top is just below the strip’s top lip or flush with its locking tab. Do not hit so hard that you bend the stake or crack the strip.

Work in Sequence

Drive the stakes at a joint first, then work outward in both directions. This keeps the strip from bowing as you go. On long runs, check the line every few stakes with your level and a string, and tap the strip back into position with the mallet if it has shifted.

Handle Hard Ground and Tough Soil

In compacted or rocky soil, a stake can bend instead of penetrating. Pre-drill a pilot hole with a long, thin rod or a screwdriver, then insert the stake and drive it the rest of the way. Keep the rod slightly smaller than the stake so the hole grips the stake’s shank.

Step 5: Check Alignment and Finish the Edge

Once every stake is set, walk the full length of the edge and inspect it from several angles. Look for high spots, dips, and any section that leans toward the lawn or the bed. A stake that has come loose can be pulled up, reseated, and driven again.

Next, backfill the trench on the lawn side with soil or topsoil, tamping it lightly so the strip is supported. On the bed side, add mulch or soil as planned. Trim any grass that grows up against the strip so the line stays crisp.

Quick Reference: Stake and Depth Guide

The table below gives typical starting points. Always confirm against your product’s instructions, because specifications differ between brands and materials.

Edging Type Typical Stake Spacing Stake Length Recommended Trench Depth
Steel strip (roll) 12 to 18 inches 12 to 15 inches Top about 1/2 inch above grade
Aluminum strip 12 to 18 inches 12 to 15 inches Top about 1/2 inch above grade
Plastic or resin strip 12 to 24 inches 10 to 14 inches Top about 1/2 to 1 inch above grade
Curved runs (any type) 8 to 12 inches on tight bends Match strip Same as straight run

For guidance on how different materials behave over time, see Lawn Edging Materials Compared: Metal, Plastic, Stone before you buy.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Hammering the stake too far. A stake driven deep can pull the strip below grade, leaving a sunken lip that catches mower wheels.
  • Using a steel hammer on aluminum or plastic. Dents and cracks start at the strike point and weaken the stake.
  • Skipping the layout step. A line set by eye on one side of the yard often looks off from the house.
  • Too few stakes on curves. Curved runs have the most tension, so they need the closest spacing.
  • Setting stakes on the wrong side. Check the instructions, because some systems place stakes on the bed side.
  • Ignoring frost and soil movement. In freeze-thaw climates, check the line each spring and reseat any stakes that have lifted.

Tips for a Cleaner, Longer-Lasting Edge

A few tools make the job faster and more accurate, especially for long runs or hard soil.

  • Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer. Its soft or weighted head seats stakes without denting metal or cracking plastic. View on Amazon
  • Half-moon edger. Cuts a clean, vertical trench along the layout line, which helps the strip sit upright. View on Amazon
  • Four-foot level. Lets you check the top edge of the strip across each section for consistent height. View on Amazon
  • Landscape marking paint. Makes a visible, durable layout line that survives the trenching step. View on Amazon

For a fuller kit covering trenching and layout, see Tools for Installing Lawn Edging: A Practical Kit.

FAQ

How deep should I hammer landscape edging stakes?

Drive stakes until the top sits just below the strip’s locking tab or top lip, so the strip is held firmly without sinking. Most stakes sit about 10 to 15 inches into the ground, but confirm the depth in your product’s instructions.

Can I hammer edging stakes into frozen ground?

No. Frozen soil resists penetration and can crack stakes or deform the strip. Wait until the ground thaws and is workable, then reseat any stakes that have heaved.

How far apart should landscape edging stakes be?

Most products call for stakes every 12 to 24 inches on straight runs. Use closer spacing, around 8 to 12 inches, on tight curves where the strip is under more tension.

What is the best hammer for landscape edging?

A rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer is the safest choice for metal and plastic stakes. A steel hammer is more likely to dent aluminum stakes or crack plastic ones.

Why does my edging keep popping up after I hammer it in?

This usually means the stakes are too shallow, the trench is too deep so the strip sits low and pulls up, or the soil is too soft for the stakes to hold. Reseat the stakes, check the trench depth, and add stakes if the run is long or curved.

Do I need to hammer edging stakes on both sides of the strip?

Usually no. Most systems place stakes on one side of the strip only, typically the lawn side. Check your product’s instructions, because a few designs use a different arrangement.

Can I hammer in edging over tree roots?

Avoid driving stakes through thick roots, since they can crack the stake or damage the root. Route the edge around the root where possible, or use shorter stakes and extra support on either side.

Conclusion

Hammering in landscape edging comes down to four things: a clear layout, a trench that matches the strip’s height, stakes spaced for the run, and careful driving so nothing bends or sinks. Take your time on the layout and check the line before you finish, and the border should hold its shape for years. Follow the manufacturer’s specifications for your product, and your edge will stay clean through seasons of mowing and weather.