Brick lawn edging gives a garden a crisp, structured boundary between turf and planting beds. It can contain mulch, reduce the time you spend hand trimming, and add a decorative touch that blends with many landscape styles. Rhonda Ferree, a horticulture educator with University of Illinois Extension, explains that edging “forms a clean, neat line between planting areas and turf or groundcovers” and, when installed properly, should “minimize hand trimming, and help contain mulches within the bed areas.” Choosing the right pavers and setting them on a stable base turns that idea into a long-lasting feature.

Before you dig: Contact 811 or visit your state 811 center’s website a few business days before any digging project. The service will arrange for underground utilities to be marked so you can avoid damaging buried lines.

Choosing the right brick or paver

Not every brick is suited to ground contact. The University of Illinois Extension advises that brick or pavers used for edging should be “well fired so they are waterproof.” Poorly fired bricks can absorb moisture, crack during freeze-thaw cycles, and deteriorate quickly. When you shop, look for pavers labeled for exterior or paving use, and ask the supplier about their firing and water absorption ratings.

The Extension also notes that a sand or concrete base, with reinforcing rods, “provides added durability and strength.” This base is what keeps individual bricks from shifting under foot traffic, mower wheels, or frost heave. The guide notes that stone edging should be at least 3 inches thick and at least 4 inches wide to stop grass. For brick, a similar stout profile will help resist lateral pressure from the lawn. For more on how brick compares with other materials, see our lawn edging materials comparison.

Planning the layout

A well-planned line makes installation faster and the finished edge more pleasing. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) guide to creating a lawn edge recommends marking out the shape before you cut. For straight edges, tie a string line between two canes or pegs and pull it taut at ground level. For curved edges, use something flexible like a garden hose, rope, or string. The RHS suggests viewing the marked-out edge from various angles, including from an upstairs window, to check the overall shape before you commit.

The RHS also points out that “broad, sweeping curves on lawn edges are easier to maintain than intricate curves or complex shapes.” This is especially true when you are working with rigid materials like brick. Gentle bends let you place pavers without excessive cutting, and they make mowing and trimming simpler. If you need inspiration for shapes, our garden design section offers ideas for both formal and naturalistic borders.

Digging the trench

Before you put a shovel in the ground, contact 811. The national before-you-dig service states that anyone who plans to dig should call or submit a request online a few business days in advance, even for projects like planting trees or installing edging. Once the utilities have marked their lines, you can dig safely.

The RHS guide for creating a lawn edge describes using a half-moon edging tool or a flat-backed spade to cut a clean line. For a simple turf edge, they suggest marking a depth of 7.5 cm (3 in) on the blade and inserting it fully. When you are installing brick edging, you will need to dig deeper to accommodate the height of the paver plus the sand or concrete base. Remove the turf and soil in narrow strips, and check the line from both ends to make sure it is neat and even. The excavated grass can be composted; the RHS advises stacking large amounts in a separate pile to rot down into soil. For step-by-step guidance on cutting straight and curved lines, visit our installation guides.

Setting the bricks

With the trench dug, prepare the base. The Illinois Extension recommends a sand or concrete base, and notes that reinforcing rods add strength. A concrete base provides a rigid foundation that resists movement, while a compacted sand base offers some flexibility and drainage. Whichever you choose, make sure the base is level and slightly wider than the bricks.

Place the bricks one by one, tapping them gently with a rubber mallet to set them at the desired height. The top of the brick should sit just above the lawn surface so that a mower wheel can pass without hitting it, but not so high that it becomes a tripping hazard. Backfill the soil on both sides and tamp it firmly. The RHS emphasizes that a well-defined edge with a decent drop down to the border helps keep mulching material in place, so aim to leave a small vertical face on the bed side.

Trimming and maintaining brick edging

Even a permanent brick edge needs occasional care. The RHS guide to maintaining lawn edges explains that redefining the edge annually with a half-moon edging tool makes trimming easier. Work your way around the lawn, inserting the blade to cut away any slivers of grass that have crept over the brick. The RHS recommends creating a drop of about 7.5 cm (3 in) from the lawn surface to the border; this helps keep grass runners out of the bed and stops mulch from spilling onto the turf.

For regular trimming, use edging shears. The RHS advises holding the shears upright so the blades are beside the lawn edge, and moving the upper handle to cut overhanging grass. Take small sideways steps and slightly overlap each cut. After mowing, a quick pass with the shears keeps the line crisp. The RHS notes that edging shears with long or telescopic handles are useful for tall gardeners, and that sharp blades give a cleaner cut. Rake up the clippings and either compost them or flick them into the border to rot down. For more on keeping edges weed-free and tidy, see our lawn maintenance resources. If you prefer a power tool, our string trimmer guide explains how to trim along hard edges safely.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need a concrete base for brick lawn edging?

The University of Illinois Extension states that a sand or concrete base, containing reinforcing rods, provides added durability and strength. A concrete base offers the most rigidity and is a good choice where the edging will face heavy side pressure, such as along a driveway. A well-compacted sand base can work in lighter applications, but it may require more frequent adjustment over time.

How do I stop grass from growing between the bricks?

The RHS advises maintaining a drop of about 7.5 cm (3 in) from the lawn to the border, which helps keep grass runners from crossing into the bed. Trimming the edge regularly with edging shears held upright will cut any overhanging blades before they can root. If gaps appear between bricks, tamp soil or sand into them so grass has less room to take hold.

Can I install brick edging without digging a trench?

No. You need to dig a trench to set the bricks at the correct height and to accommodate the base material. The RHS guide for creating a lawn edge describes cutting into the turf with a half-moon edger or spade, and for brick you will need to go deeper than the simple 7.5 cm (3 in) cut used for a bare soil edge. Always contact 811 a few business days before you dig to have underground utilities marked.

For a closer look at brick edging styles, installation details, and design ideas, visit our brick lawn edging page. You can also explore other edging types in our lawn edging types section and compare materials in our materials guide.

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