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Concrete block landscape edging gives you a sturdy, clean border between your lawn and beds, and it holds up to mowers, mulch and years of weather. In this guide you will plan the layout, dig a proper trench, set a compacted base, lay the blocks so they stay level and tight, and finish the edge so it looks crisp. Most of the work is in the prep, and that is where this guide spends most of its time.
What You Need Before You Start
Concrete landscape edging blocks come in several profiles, including straight-sided pavers, interlocking retaining-style units and wider curb-style pieces. Choose a block that matches the height you want above grade and the amount of load it will see. A mower wheel rolling along the top is a light load, but a block set at the wrong depth can still shift after a few freeze-thaw cycles.
Shopping for one? See our guide: 10 Best Edging Tools for Yard Options for Clean Lawn Lines (2026).
Checklist of materials and tools
- Concrete edging blocks, counted from your measured length plus about 5 percent extra for cuts
- Crushed stone base material, typically a dense-graded gravel or road base
- Coarse sand or stone dust for a thin leveling layer (roughly 1 inch)
- Flexible garden hose or a string line for marking curves and straight runs
- Spade or flat shovel, and a steel tape measure
- Hand tamper or plate compactor
- Four-foot level and a rubber mallet
- Masonry saw or a diamond blade on an angle grinder for cuts
- Landscape spikes or stakes if your design calls for them
Step 1: Plan the Layout and Measure Accurately
Mark your edge with marking paint or a garden hose. Walk the line from several angles, since a border that looks straight from one spot can wander when you stand somewhere else. For curves, keep the radius at least as wide as two blocks laid end to end, because tight bends force the blocks to fan out and open gaps on the outer side.
Measure the total run, then divide by the block length. Add a few extra blocks for cuts at corners and where the edge meets a walkway. If your blocks are 8 inches long, a 40-foot border needs about 60 blocks before waste.
Decide on the finished height
Most homeowners want the top of the block 1 to 2 inches above the soil or turf on the lawn side. This keeps mulch and grass clippings from spilling over while still letting a mower wheel ride cleanly. Plan the trench depth from that target.
Step 2: Dig the Trench and Build the Base
Dig a trench about 4 to 6 inches deep and 8 to 10 inches wide, deeper if you live where the ground freezes hard. The trench should be the width of your block plus a few inches on each side, so you have room to compact the base evenly.
- Remove sod, roots and soft organic soil from the trench bottom.
- Add 3 to 4 inches of crushed stone base and spread it evenly.
- Moisten the stone lightly and compact it in 1-inch lifts with a tamper or plate compactor.
- Check the base with a level along its length and correct any low spots.
A well-compacted base is the single biggest factor in how long concrete block landscape edging stays in place. Owners often report that edging which heaves or sinks almost always had a thin or loose base.
Step 3: Add the Leveling Layer and Set the First Block
Spread a thin layer of coarse sand or stone dust, about 1 inch, over the compacted base. Screed it smooth with a straight board so it is even, but do not compact it hard. This layer lets you fine-tune each block’s height.
Set your first block at the starting point, check it with the level in both directions, and tap it with the rubber mallet until it sits true. The top of the block should match the height you planned in Step 1. Work from the fixed starting point so each new block lines up with the one before it.
Lay the remaining blocks
Set each block tight against the previous one, with joints no wider than a few millimeters. Check alignment every three or four blocks against your string line. For curves, rotate the blocks slightly so the joints stay tight on the inside and small wedge gaps open on the outside, which you can fill later with sand.
Step 4: Cut Blocks and Finish the Corners
Mark cuts on the block face and cut with a masonry saw or diamond blade. Wear eye protection and a dust mask, because concrete dust contains crystalline silica. Work outdoors with water if your saw allows it to control dust. For mitered corners, measure each side from the outside edge and cut at 45 degrees.
Dry-fit cut pieces before setting them in place. A slightly undersized cut can be shimmed with sand, but an oversized piece will not sit properly and may crack under tapping.
Step 5: Backfill, Compact and Stake (If Needed)
Once the blocks are set, backfill behind them with the base material or native soil, pressing in small amounts at a time. Tamp lightly as you go so the edge is supported on both sides. If the design is a retaining or heavily loaded edge, add landscape spikes through the block holes or along the outer face to hold the run in place.
Sweep fine sand into the joints, then mist the surface with water so the sand settles. Repeat as needed until the joints are full.
Common Mistakes and Tips
- Skipping compaction. A loose base is the most common reason blocks shift. Compact in layers, and do not rely on settling over time.
- Setting blocks too high. A block that sits far above grade is easy to trip on and can crack when mowed against. Keep the exposed height modest.
- Using too little base in cold climates. Frost heave can push blocks out of line if the base does not extend below the frost zone. Check local guidance on base depth.
- Ignoring drainage. Water pooling behind the edge will undermine the base. Slope the surface away from the border where possible.
- Rushing the level checks. Checking every few blocks prevents a small error from becoming a crooked run after 20 feet.
Recommended gear
A diamond-blade cut-off saw or a masonry saw makes clean square cuts in concrete blocks much easier than a standard circular saw. Look for a blade rated for masonry and wet cutting if you want to limit dust.
A plate compactor speeds up base prep on long runs and gives more even compaction than a hand tamper. Choose a model sized for the width of your trench.
A four-foot level with a rubber-coated frame helps you check block height and alignment while protecting the blocks from scratches. Search for View on Amazon if you need one.
A rubber mallet lets you tap blocks into position without chipping their edges. Search for View on Amazon when shopping.
FAQ
How deep should I dig for concrete block landscape edging?
Dig about 4 to 6 inches deep for a base of crushed stone plus a thin sand layer. In colder climates, deeper bases help prevent frost heave.
Do concrete edging blocks need mortar?
Most landscape edging blocks are dry-set and do not need mortar. A compacted stone base and a sand leveling layer hold them in place.
How tall should the edge sit above the lawn?
A height of about 1 to 2 inches above grade is common. This keeps mulch and clippings contained while allowing a mower to pass over the edge.
Can I cut concrete edging blocks at home?
Yes, with a masonry saw or a diamond blade. Wear eye protection and a dust mask, since cutting concrete releases silica dust.
How do I make a curved concrete block border?
Use a hose or string line to mark the curve, and keep the radius wide enough that blocks can follow it. Rotate blocks slightly so joints stay tight on the inside of the curve.
Why are my concrete edging blocks shifting?
Shifting is usually caused by an under-compacted base, a shallow trench or poor drainage. Remove the affected blocks, rebuild the base in layers and reset them.
Can I install concrete block edging on a slope?
Yes, but step the blocks down the slope rather than forcing them into a continuous line that is out of level. Add stakes or spikes to hold the run against soil movement.
Conclusion
Concrete block landscape edging rewards careful prep more than fast installation. Plan the height and layout, compact a proper base, set each block true to a level, and backfill firmly. If you want to compare other border options before you commit, see Stone Lawn Edging: Sizes, Base and Setting and Brick Lawn Edging: Choosing Pavers and Setting Them for related approaches.
