Caleb MorganBy Caleb Morgan

Updated November 2026

Col-met 8 ft brown steel landscape edging is a strip of metal that sets a firm boundary between your lawn and your beds, mulch, or walkways. Once it is installed, you get a clean, level line that keeps grass out of planting areas and mulch out of the turf. This guide walks you through planning the layout, cutting and joining sections, setting the edging to the right depth, and finishing the border so it holds its shape for years.

What You Need Before You Start

Metal edging is simple to install, but it goes much faster when you gather the right tools first. Most of the work involves marking a line, digging a shallow trench, and driving stakes, so a few basic items cover nearly every job.

Shopping for one? See our guide: 7 Best Brown Steel Landscape Edging Options for Clean Lines (2026).

  • Col-met 8 ft brown steel edging sections, plus extra stakes (count one stake per section at each end and roughly every 18 to 24 inches along straight runs)
  • Garden hose or spray paint for marking the layout
  • Flat spade or edging spade for trenching
  • Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer for setting the edging and stakes
  • Tin snips or a metal-cutting blade on a reciprocating saw for trimming sections
  • Tape measure, line level, and a straight board or string line
  • Work gloves and eye protection
  • Landscape fabric (optional, for weed control along the bed side)

Step 1: Plan the Layout and Mark the Line

Good edging depends on a planned line. Lay the hose in the shape you want, then step back and look at it from the house and from the street. Curves should be smooth arcs rather than tight kinks, because a steel strip bends best across gentle radii. For straight runs, use a string line or a long board to check that the path is true.

Once you like the shape, mark it with spray paint every few feet. Keep the marks on the lawn side of where the steel will sit so you do not accidentally cut into the bed.

Step 2: Dig the Trench to the Correct Depth

The steel needs to sit slightly below the surface so the mower can run along it without catching. Most installers aim for the top of the edging to sit about 1 inch above grade on the bed side and roughly level with the lawn on the grass side. In practical terms, dig a trench about 4 to 5 inches deep, which allows the 4-inch-tall strip to sit with its top lip slightly proud of the soil.

Use a flat spade and keep the trench walls vertical. Work along the marked line in short sections, removing sod and soil as you go. Clear out any roots or rocks that would prevent the strip from seating evenly.

Checking Depth as You Go

Set a section in the trench and check it with a line level laid across the top. Adjust the depth by digging deeper or adding a little soil to the bottom. Dips in the trench show up as wavy lines later, so take an extra minute here.

Step 3: Set the First Section

Start at a fixed point, such as a corner, a walkway edge, or a driveway. Place the first 8-foot section in the trench with the flat face toward the bed and the top edge at your target height. Hold it plumb with one hand while you check the level with the other.

Drive a stake through the pre-punched holes or along the outside of the strip, angling it slightly toward the bed. Use the rubber mallet to tap the stake down until its head is just below the top edge of the steel. Driving stakes too high leaves a bump that catches the mower.

Step 4: Join Sections and Cut to Fit

Most 8-foot sections connect end to end. Overlap or butt the ends according to the joining method provided with your product, then secure the joint with a stake placed right at the seam. Make sure both sections sit at the same height and line up with each other. A joint that is off by even a quarter inch will be visible for the life of the border.

To cut a section, mark the cut line and use tin snips for thin steel or a metal-cutting blade for thicker stock. Wear gloves, because cut edges are sharp. Dress the cut with a file to remove burrs before setting the piece.

Handling Curves

For gentle curves, bend the steel gradually by working along the length rather than forcing a tight bend at one point. Add an extra stake at each bend point. For tight radii, cut the strip into shorter pieces and set each one at a slight angle to the last.

Step 5: Stake the Full Run

Place a stake at every joint and at both ends of each section. On long straight runs, add one stake about every 18 to 24 inches to keep the line from bowing. Keep stakes on the bed side of the steel where possible, because stakes on the lawn side can interfere with mowing. Drive each stake until its head sits just below the top edge.

Step 6: Backfill and Compact the Soil

Once the full run is in place and level, backfill both sides with soil. Pack the soil firmly against the steel with your hands or the back of the spade, working in small amounts so the strip does not shift. On the lawn side, the soil should come close to the top edge so the grass meets the steel cleanly. On the bed side, add mulch or soil up to the same height or slightly below.

If you plan to lay landscape fabric, place it along the bed side before backfilling so the fabric runs under the mulch and up against the steel.

Step 7: Check and Clean Up

Walk the entire line and sight along the top edge. Look for high spots, dips, and gaps at the joints. Tap any high section down gently with a mallet and re-tighten stakes where needed. Water the new border lightly to settle the soil. Then rake away loose debris and trim any grass that grew over the edge during installation.

Common Mistakes

  • Setting the strip too high. A lip above the lawn makes mowing harder and can chip the blades. Aim for the top edge close to grade.
  • Skipping the line level. Eye-balling a run almost always produces waves that show up after the first season.
  • Not enough stakes. Long runs without stakes can bow outward when the soil shifts or when mulch is piled against them.
  • Driving stakes through the top. Stakes that protrude above the steel are a safety hazard and make the border look unfinished.
  • Cutting into the bed. Mark your line on the lawn side and check it before digging.

Tips for a Long-Lasting Border

  • Install the edging when the soil is moist but not soggy. Dry, hard soil is difficult to trench, and wet soil shifts easily.
  • Check the border each spring after freeze-thaw cycles, which can push strips upward.
  • Keep mulch a few inches below the top edge so mulch does not spill onto the lawn.
  • Store any leftover sections flat and dry to prevent surface rust on cut ends.

A few tools make the install noticeably easier, especially on longer runs or on compacted soil.

  • Flat edging spade for trenching a clean, vertical wall. A spade with a straight blade gives more control than a round-point shovel. View on Amazon
  • Dead-blow rubber mallet for tapping the steel and stakes down without denting them. The rubber face spreads the force so the metal stays undamaged. View on Amazon
  • Line level to confirm the top edge is level across each section before staking. A small bubble level clips directly to a string line. View on Amazon
  • Heavy-duty tin snips for cutting sections to length cleanly on thinner steel stock. View on Amazon

FAQ

How deep should I bury col-met 8 ft brown steel edging?

Most installers set the top edge close to grade, with the strip sitting about 4 to 5 inches into the soil so it stays upright. Check the manufacturer’s instructions for the exact stake and depth specifications for your product.

Can I install it without digging a trench?

Some steel edging can be pounded into soft soil, but a trench gives a straighter, more stable line and reduces the chance of the strip leaning or heaving. For firm or rocky ground, digging is strongly recommended.

How many stakes do I need per 8-foot section?

Plan on at least one stake at each end and one at each joint. On straight runs, add stakes about every 18 to 24 inches. Curved runs need more stakes at each bend.

Can I cut col-met steel edging with a regular saw?

You can cut it with tin snips for thin stock or a metal-cutting blade on a reciprocating saw. Avoid abrasive blades that throw sparks near dry grass, and wear eye protection and gloves.

Will the steel rust over time?

Brown steel edging is typically coated to resist corrosion, but cut ends and scratched areas can rust. Touch up exposed spots with a rust-inhibiting paint, and check the manufacturer’s notes on coating and warranty.

How do I keep grass from growing over the edge?

Keep the lawn side trimmed close to the steel with a string trimmer or edger each time you mow. Maintaining a small gap or a slight downward slope on the lawn side helps keep grass from creeping under the strip.

Is it safe to mow over steel edging?

Mowing over the top edge is generally fine if the strip sits level with the lawn. A lip that sticks up can damage blades and create a hazard, so set the steel carefully and keep stakes below the top surface. Consult the manufacturer’s guidance for your specific model.

Should I use landscape fabric behind the edging?

Landscape fabric on the bed side helps suppress weeds, especially under mulch. It does not replace good trenching and staking, but it does reduce weed growth right against the border.

Conclusion

Installing col-met 8 ft brown steel landscape edging is a manageable weekend project when you plan the layout, dig a consistent trench, and check levels as you go. Stake each joint and long run securely, and backfill with firm soil to lock the line in place. With a little care, you will have a clean, durable border that makes the whole yard look more finished.

Ready to choose one?

Caleb Morgan

About Caleb Morgan

Caleb Morgan is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our lawn edging & trimming guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.