How to Fix Landscape Edging: A Step-by-Step Repair Guide

By Owen Hayes

Knowing how to fix landscape edging comes down to three things: figuring out why it failed, resetting or replacing the damaged sections, and securing the border so it stays put. Most repairs take a single weekend and require only basic hand tools. This guide walks through diagnosing the problem, repairing the most common failures, and preventing the same issues from coming back.

Diagnose Why the Edging Failed

Before you touch a shovel, spend 10 minutes figuring out what went wrong. The cause determines the fix. A section that has sunk into the soil needs a different repair than one that has been pushed out by frozen ground or one that has been chewed up by a mower deck.

Shopping for one? See our guide: Easyflex No Dig Landscape Edging Kit Review: Is It Worth It?. For a deeper look, Why a Lawn Mower Engine Stalls While Mowing and How to Fix It covers this in detail.

Common failure patterns

• Sinking: The edging dips below grade, often because the base was never compacted or the stakes were driven into loose soil.
• Heaving: Sections lift up after freeze-thaw cycles, usually when there is no gravel base to drain water away from the edge.
• Gapping: Lawn grass or mulch pushes between pieces, or the sections pull apart at joints and corners.
• Tilting or leaning: Sections rotate outward, typically from soil pressure behind the edge or stakes that have lost their grip.
• Rust or cracking: Metal edging corrodes at the cut ends, and plastic or resin can become brittle in strong sun.
• Mower damage: The top edge gets clipped, bent or knocked loose by equipment running too close.

Material check

Identify your edging type, because the repair method varies. Steel and aluminum strips are usually held by stakes or spikes. Plastic and resin edging often uses interlocking stakes or a locking clip. Concrete, stone and timber require a more involved base repair. If you are not sure what you have, the installation details in our guide on How to Install Lawn Edging: Straight and Curved Edges will help you match the hardware to the material.

Gather Your Tools and Materials

Having everything ready before you dig keeps the job moving and prevents you from leaving a trench open in the rain. Most edging repairs need the following:

• Garden spade or flat shovel
• Hand tamper or a 4×4 post for compacting soil
• Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer
• Line level and string line
• Utility knife or hacksaw for trimming pieces
• Replacement stakes, spikes or connectors
• Crushed stone or paver base (3/4-inch minus works well)
• Landscape fabric, if weeds are a problem
• Work gloves and knee pads

Before you order replacement hardware, call 811 or your local utility locator if you plan to dig more than a few inches deep near the edge. Many lawns have irrigation lines or buried wiring running right along the border.

Step-by-Step: Repairing Sunken or Heaved Sections

Sunken and heaved edging is the most common complaint, and it is also the most fixable. The goal is to lift the section, rebuild a firm base underneath, and reset it to the correct height.

1. Mark the damaged run. Use a flag or a piece of spray paint to outline the sections that need work, including one good section on either side for alignment.
2. Remove the stakes or fasteners. Pull them carefully. If they are bent, replace them rather than straightening and reusing.
3. Lift the edging out. Work from one end. Dig along the outside of the strip so you do not disturb the lawn side more than necessary.
4. Dig out the old base. Excavate about 2 to 3 inches below the intended finished height. Remove soft, wet or organic material.
5. Add and compact base material. Spread 2 inches of crushed stone and tamp it in 1-inch layers until it is firm. Compacted base is what stops future heaving.
6. Reset the edging. Set the top edge so it sits about 1/2 inch above the finished grade on the lawn side. Use a line level to keep the run straight or the curve smooth.
7. Re-secure with stakes. Drive stakes at the spacing the manufacturer specifies, usually every 12 to 24 inches for metal and plastic strips. Keep them slightly angled toward the bed side, which resists outward pressure.
8. Backfill and tamp. Fill the outside with soil and compact it lightly. Avoid stepping directly on the top edge while you work.

Fixing Gaps, Loose Joints and Misaligned Corners

When sections separate or corners drift out of square, you often do not need to replace anything. Most joints can be realigned and locked back together.

Re-seat interlocking joints

For plastic or resin edging with tab-and-slot connectors, pull the two pieces apart, clean the connector with a stiff brush, and press them together again. If the tabs have worn down, a small dab of exterior-grade construction adhesive can help hold them.

Square up a corner

Measure the diagonals of your corner. If they are equal, the corner is square. If not, loosen the stakes on the two strips meeting at the corner, nudge them until the diagonals match, then re-drive the stakes.

Close a gap at the lawn edge

Grass runners often push into gaps. Cut them back with a half-moon edger or a flat spade, then backfill with soil and firm it. Our overview of Half Moon Edging Tool: How to Use One for Clean Lawn Lines covers how to keep that line clean over time.

Repairing Rust, Cracks and Damaged Ends

Surface rust on steel edging is usually cosmetic. Wire-brush the rust, apply a rust-inhibiting primer and then a coat of exterior paint. Steel with deep pitting or perforated ends should be replaced.

Cracked plastic or resin pieces can be replaced individually if the manufacturer still sells the section. Cut out the damaged piece with a hacksaw and slide in a matching replacement, securing both ends with fresh connectors or stakes.

Cut ends on aluminum edging can be filed smooth and sealed with a rust-proof touch-up paint or a zinc-rich spray to slow oxidation.

Preventing Future Edging Failures

A repair holds longer when you address the root cause. The following adjustments make the biggest difference:

If you are weighing a different material for the rebuild, the comparison in Heavy Duty Plastic Landscape Edging: How to Choose and Install It Right and Steel Edging for Landscape: 7 Best Picks for Clean Lines (2026) can help you decide whether a switch makes sense.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Skipping the base. Setting edging directly on topsoil is the fastest route back to sinking.
• Setting the top too high. Edging that sits well above grade gets hit by mowers and looks unfinished. Aim for about 1/2 inch above.
• Using too few stakes. Follow the spacing on the packaging, and add extra stakes on curves and corners.
• Reusing bent stakes. Bent stakes lose holding power. Replace them.
• Working in saturated soil. Mud makes compaction impossible and smears the base. Wait for drier weather if you can.
• Forgetting to check the line. A quick line level check prevents a wavy run that is hard to fix later.

Recommended gear

These items make the repair faster and the results more durable.

• Hand tamper: A compact tamper compresses base material in thin lifts, which is the single most important step for stopping future sinking. View on Amazon
• Line level: Hanging a line level on a taut string keeps a long run straight and at a consistent height. View on Amazon
• Dead-blow hammer: It drives stakes without bouncing back and damaging the edging. View on Amazon
• Half-moon edger: Useful for cleaning up the lawn line after you reset the edging. View on Amazon

Tips for a Lasting Repair

• Make repairs in spring or early fall when the ground is moist but not saturated.
• Photograph the existing layout before you start so you can match the original alignment.
• Keep a few spare stakes and connectors on hand for future touch-ups.
• Inspect edging twice a year, and reset loose pieces before they lean far enough to cause damage.
• Keep mulch and soil slightly below the top edge so runoff does not wash underneath.

FAQ

How long does landscape edging repair usually take?

A few sections can often be reset in an afternoon. A full run of 50 or more feet, especially if the base needs rebuilding, may take a full weekend.

Can I fix sunken edging without digging it all out?

Sometimes. If the section sits only slightly low, you may be able to lift it, add a thin layer of compacted base and reset it. Severe sinking usually requires excavation.

Why does my landscape edging keep heaving in winter?

Water trapped beneath the edge freezes and expands. Installing a gravel base that drains well and adding stakes usually stops the cycle.

Should I use concrete to secure edging?

For high-stress areas, a small concrete footing can add stability. For most residential runs, a compacted base and properly spaced stakes are enough. Consult a landscape contractor if the edging supports a retaining wall or slope.

How do I straighten a warped metal edging strip?

Place the strip on a flat surface and apply gentle pressure with a rubber mallet, working from the bend outward. Avoid heavy force, which can crack the metal.

What is the best time of year to repair edging?

Late spring and early fall are ideal because the soil is workable and grass is actively growing, which helps the lawn recover quickly.

Can mower damage be repaired or only replaced?

Light bends can often be straightened. Deep cuts, cracks or crushed sections usually need replacement.

Conclusion

Fixing landscape edging starts with understanding why it failed, whether that is sinking, heaving, gapping or mower damage. Rebuilding a compacted base, resetting the sections to the right height and securing them with properly spaced stakes will solve most problems. Taking a few preventive steps, such as adding drainage gravel and leaving a mowing strip, will keep the border clean for years.

About Owen Hayes

Owen writes about lawn edging & trimming. Each guide starts with research into how products are built and what owners report after months of use, and is revised when better options appear.