By Caleb MorganUpdated November 2026
The cost of landscape edging depends mainly on the material you choose, the length of the run, and whether you install it yourself or hire a crew. Plastic and steel strips are usually the least expensive per foot, while stone and concrete raise the total quickly. Labor and site preparation can add significantly to the final bill, so measure your bed perimeter before comparing options.
Why Edging Costs Vary So Much
Edging is sold by the linear foot, but the finished price is shaped by more than the raw material. A 40-foot bed edged in flexible plastic might need only a handful of stakes and a few hours of work. The same bed in cut stone may require a gravel base, mortar or landscape adhesive, and careful leveling at every joint. Material choice sets the baseline, and the install method often decides whether the project stays modest or grows.
Site conditions matter too. Rocky or compacted soil makes trenching slow. Curves require more cuts and more fitting than straight runs. Tree roots, existing sprinkler lines and slopes can all add steps that raise the total.
Factors That Change the Total
- Material: Plastic and aluminum are generally the most economical. Steel and composite fall in the middle. Stone, brick and poured concrete are the most expensive.
- Linear footage: Doubling the length roughly doubles material cost, but fixed costs such as tools or a delivery fee do not scale the same way.
- Depth and base: Edging that needs a compacted gravel base or a concrete footing costs more than pound-in or stake-in styles.
- Shape and cuts: Tight curves and many corners increase waste and labor time.
- Labor: DIY keeps the cost to materials and tools. Professional installation adds labor charges that vary by region and project complexity. Consult a licensed contractor for any work involving utility lines or significant grading.
How to Keep Edging Costs Under Control
The most reliable way to save is to match the material to the job. A straight perimeter along a lawn may look sharp in simple aluminum, while a raised stone bed may justify the extra expense. Use these steps to plan:
- Measure every bed perimeter and add about 10 percent for cuts and waste.
- Mark curves with a garden hose or spray paint before buying anything.
- Compare two or three materials for the same footage, including delivery and any base materials.
- Check the depth required for your chosen style so you buy the right size.
- Install in sections if the budget is tight, starting with the most visible borders.
If you are comparing specific styles, our guide to Low Cost Landscape Edging: 6 Best Budget Picks for Clean Lines covers economical options in detail. For concrete, Cost of Concrete Landscape Edging: What to Expect and How to Budget walks through what drives those numbers.
What We’d Use
For a straightforward, low-maintenance border, a flexible aluminum or steel strip that pounds into the soil is a practical choice, and it needs only basic tools. View on Amazon
For a lawn border that needs to hold a curve without a base, a heavier steel edging with stakes is a sensible middle option. View on Amazon
FAQ
What is the cheapest type of landscape edging?
Flexible plastic and thin aluminum strips are usually the least expensive per foot. Their main trade-off is lower durability in areas with heavy foot traffic or frequent mowing.
Does DIY edging save a lot of money?
It can, because labor is often the largest share of a professional bill. You will still need tools, and for complex jobs such as retaining walls or stone work, hiring a professional may be the safer choice.
How much edging should I buy?
Measure the total perimeter of each bed, then add about 10 percent for cuts, curves and waste. Round up to the next full length the manufacturer sells.
Related reading
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About Caleb Morgan
Caleb Morgan is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our lawn edging & trimming guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.
