Updated November 2026
EasyFlex no dig landscape edging with anchoring spikes is a flexible plastic border that you set along a lawn or bed line without trenching. You lay the strip, bend it into your curve, and drive the included spikes through the anchor tabs into the soil so the edge holds its shape. This guide walks through planning the line, preparing the ground, setting the spikes, and checking the finished border so it stays straight through mowing and seasonal freeze-thaw.
What You Need Before You Start
Most homeowners can finish a 30- to 50-foot run in an afternoon. Gather your materials first so you are not stopping halfway through a curve.
Shopping for one? See our guide: 6 Best Easyflex No Dig Landscape Edging Kit Options for Clean Lines (2026).
- EasyFlex edging strips, enough to cover your total run plus about 10 percent for overlaps and cuts
- The anchoring spikes that come with the kit, usually one every 12 to 18 inches on straight runs
- A garden hose or marking paint to outline the curve
- A flat-blade spade or half-moon edger for cutting sod
- A rubber mallet or a hammer with a block of wood to protect the strip
- A utility knife or hacksaw for trimming ends
- A level or straightedge for checking the top edge
Step 1: Plan and Mark the Line
Lay your hose on the ground in the exact shape you want. Walk away and look at it from the house and from the street, since curves that look smooth up close can look lumpy from a distance. Once you are satisfied, spray a line of marking paint along the hose. For a clean lawn border, keep curves at a radius of at least 2 feet; tighter bends make the strip buckle and are harder to keep flush.
Step 2: Cut the Sod and Prepare the Trench Line
Cut Along the Marked Line
Use a flat spade or half-moon edger to cut straight down along the paint line, about 3 to 4 inches deep. Cut in short, overlapping strokes rather than one long push, which keeps the cut edge clean. Remove the sod strip and set it aside or discard it.
Level the Bed Side
Smooth the soil on the bed side so it sits roughly level with the top of the strip once installed. Remove stones and roots. A bump of even half an inch under the strip will show as a dip in the finished line.
Step 3: Position the Strip
Set the EasyFlex strip into the cut with the top edge slightly above the lawn grade, usually about half an inch to one inch above the turf. The fabric or colored top should face the lawn side for a clean look. Press the strip against the soil so the bottom is in firm contact along its length. Overlap joined sections by the length the manufacturer specifies and align the top edges with a straightedge.
Step 4: Set the Anchoring Spikes
The anchoring spikes are what keep the edging in place without a trench or concrete. Work through the run in this order:
- Place a spike at each anchor tab, starting at the ends and at any curve points, then fill in between.
- Angle the spike slightly toward the bed side so it pulls the strip down and inward.
- Drive the spike with a rubber mallet until the head sits flush with the top of the tab. Do not overdrive, or you will crack the tab.
- On curves, add an extra spike every 8 to 10 inches to hold the bend.
Check the top edge with a level as you go. If one section sits high, pull the spike and reset it rather than forcing the strip down.
Step 5: Backfill and Finish the Edge
Backfill the bed side with mulch, soil, or stone so the strip is supported along its full height. Tamp lightly by hand. On the lawn side, lay the sod back against the strip and press it down so the grass grows right up to the edge. Water the area thoroughly to settle the soil.
Spacing and Spike Reference
| Run Type | Typical Spike Spacing | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Straight runs | 12 to 18 inches | Follow the kit’s stated maximum |
| Gentle curves (radius 4+ ft) | 10 to 12 inches | Spike at every bend point |
| Tight curves (radius 2 to 4 ft) | 6 to 8 inches | Strip can buckle if under-anchored |
| Corners and ends | Within 2 inches of the end | Prevents lifting and creep |
These ranges reflect common practice; always confirm against the spacing printed in your kit’s instructions.
Common Mistakes
- Installing on soggy or frozen ground. Spikes pull out easily in saturated soil and can crack in frozen ground. Wait for workable soil.
- Setting the strip too high. A strip that stands more than an inch above the lawn catches the mower deck and can be bent or pulled up.
- Skipping spikes on curves. Curves are where edging creeps first. Add spikes at every bend.
- Not compacting the bed side. Loose mulch lets the strip shift under load from foot traffic and mulch shifting.
- Overdriving spikes. Hammering too hard cracks the anchor tabs, which weakens the hold.
Tips for Longer-Lasting Results
- Check the line once a month during the first growing season and reseat any spike that has loosened.
- Trim grass along the top edge with a string trimmer held at a slight angle, so you do not nick the strip.
- For more context on how this product compares with other options, see No-Dig EasyFlex Landscape Edging: A Step-by-Step Install Guide.
- If you are weighing other styles for the same border, What Are the Best Options for Landscape Edging? 7 Choices Compared covers the tradeoffs.
- Pairing the border with stone or mulch on the bed side helps hold the strip in place over time, and Spikes for Landscape Edging: A Step-by-Step Guide to Clean Lines explains spike placement in more detail.
Recommended gear
- Half-moon edging tool: A curved blade cuts a clean, consistent trench along a marked line, which makes the strip sit flush. View on Amazon
- Rubber mallet: Drives spikes without marring the anchor tabs or the strip. View on Amazon
- Marking paint: Lets you lay out curves on the lawn and check them from a distance before cutting. View on Amazon
FAQ
Can I install EasyFlex no dig landscape edging without a trench?
Yes. The strip is designed to sit in a shallow cut made with a spade or edger, and the anchoring spikes hold it in place. You do not need to dig a deep trench or pour concrete.
How many anchoring spikes do I need?
Plan on one spike at each anchor tab, which typically works out to one every 12 to 18 inches on straight runs. Add more on curves and at corners.
Can I install it on a curved bed?
Yes, but keep curves gentle and add spikes more frequently at bend points. Very tight curves are more likely to buckle.
How high should the top of the edging sit above the lawn?
Aim for about half an inch to one inch above grade. This height keeps the mower deck from catching the edge while still defining the bed clearly.
Can I install it in winter?
It is best to wait until the soil is workable and not frozen or saturated. Driving spikes into frozen ground can crack them, and wet soil lets them pull out.
How do I remove the edging later?
Pull the spikes out with pliers or a claw tool, then lift the strip. Plastic strips usually come out cleanly if the soil is not packed hard around them.
Will mowing damage the strip?
A properly set strip sits low enough that most mowers pass over it. Keep the deck height consistent and trim close to the edge with a string trimmer rather than running the mower wheel hard against it.
Conclusion
With the line marked, the sod cut cleanly, and spikes placed every 12 to 18 inches on straight runs and closer on curves, your EasyFlex border should hold its shape for seasons. Check the spikes after the first few months and reseat any that have loosened. Take your time on the layout, since a careful plan is what makes the finished edge look sharp.
