Caleb MorganBy Caleb Morgan

Updated November 2026

Vigoro metal landscape edging is a steel strip you set into the soil to hold mulch, gravel or grass back from beds, walkways and patio edges. Done right, it gives you a crisp, permanent line that resists creeping roots and keeps your trimmer from chewing up the border. This guide walks through choosing the right product, preparing the ground, setting the strip and finishing the joints so the edge holds up for years.

What Vigoro Metal Landscape Edging Is Good For

Most homeowners reach for metal edging when they want a border that stays put. Plastic and resin options flex and can heave with freeze-thaw cycles, while a steel strip, when properly set, holds its shape and creates a hard barrier that grass rhizomes struggle to cross. Vigoro-branded steel edging is typically sold as a roll or a set of straight sections, and it is generally aimed at do-it-yourself installers who want a clean line without pouring concrete.

Shopping for one? See our guide: 6 Best Metal Landscape Edging Material Options for Clean Lawn Lines.

It works well for separating lawn from mulched planting beds, outlining a curved flower bed, or containing gravel paths. It is less suited to tight, very small-radius curves, and it will not stop invasive running plants that tunnel deep underground. Think of it as a visual and physical divider, not a root barrier that replaces proper bed maintenance.

Before You Start: Tools and Materials

Gather everything before you dig. Stopping halfway to hunt for a mallet or a level wastes time and often leaves a wobbly line.

  • Vigoro metal edging strips or roll, with the stakes or spikes included in the kit
  • Flat spade or edging spade for trenching
  • Garden hose or marking paint for laying out curves
  • Rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer to seat the strip without denting it
  • Line level and a straight 4-foot board
  • Tin snips or a metal-cutting blade for trimming sections
  • Work gloves, since steel edges are sharp
  • Stakes or pins if your kit does not include them

Step 1: Plan the Layout and Mark the Line

Start by deciding exactly where the edge will run. Lay a garden hose in the shape you want and step back to check it from the house and from the walkway. Smooth, sweeping curves look better than tight wiggles, and a radius of at least 2 to 3 feet is easier to hold with straight strips.

Once you like the shape, trace it with marking paint or a line of sand. Check that the edge sits at a consistent distance from any hardscape, such as a sidewalk or patio, so your mower or trimmer can run along it without catching.

Step 2: Trench to the Correct Depth

Cut a trench along your marked line. Most manufacturers recommend setting the top of the strip just below or level with the finished grade, so the lawn side can be mowed over without a lip. A trench roughly 5 to 6 inches deep, with the strip set so its top sits about 1 inch above the soil on the bed side, is a common target for a 4 to 6 inch wide strip. Always follow the depth printed in your product instructions, since heights vary by model.

Keep the trench wall vertical on the lawn side. A slanted wall lets grass slip under the strip and makes the border look soft.

Step 3: Set the Strip Straight and Level

Feed the strip into the trench with the flat face toward the bed and the stakes or spikes facing the lawn. Use the straight board and line level to check the top edge every few feet. Metal rolls are rarely perfectly straight out of the box, so gently persuade them into line with your hands and a rubber mallet.

Drive stakes at the spacing given in your instructions, which is often every 12 to 18 inches on straight runs and closer on curves. Drive them down so their heads sit just below the strip’s top edge. Tapping lightly is better than striking hard, which can bend the steel.

Step 4: Join Sections and Handle Curves

Overlap or interlock the ends of adjacent strips according to the kit design, usually by a few inches, and secure the joint with a stake placed right at the seam. Avoid leaving gaps, because soil and grass will fill them and show as a dark line.

For curves, bend the strip gradually rather than kinking it. Add a stake at every bend point, and if the radius is tight, cut shorter sections so each one follows the arc with less stress on the metal.

Step 5: Cut Strips Cleanly

When you need a shorter piece, mark the cut line, then cut with tin snips or a metal-cutting blade. Wear gloves and hold the strip steady on a flat surface. File the cut edge lightly if it feels sharp. For a full walkthrough of cutting technique, see How to Cut Metal Landscape Edging Cleanly: A Step-by-Step Guide.

Step 6: Backfill, Compact and Finish

Backfill the trench on the lawn side with soil and firm it by hand or with your heel, working in layers. Fill the bed side last, bringing the soil up to the strip so mulch or gravel will sit against the metal. Water the area lightly to settle the soil, then check the line once more with your board.

Vigoro Edging Compared to Other Metal Types

Not every steel edging behaves the same. The table below shows how the main factors differ, based on what manufacturers and installers typically describe rather than on any single test.

Factor Standard Steel Strip Heavier Gauge or Commercial Strip
Ease of bending Easy to shape on curves Harder to bend, better for straight runs
Ease of cutting Simple with tin snips May need a metal-cutting blade
Resistance to bending under soil pressure Adequate for typical residential beds Stronger, suits high-traffic or heavy mulch
Best use Residential lawn-to-bed borders Long straight runs, raised or large beds

Common Mistakes

  • Setting the strip too high. A tall lip catches the mower deck and trips the trimmer. Keep the top close to grade on the lawn side.
  • Skipping stakes on curves. Unsupported curves drift and bulge after the first heavy rain.
  • Leaving gaps at joints. Open seams let grass and weeds cross the line.
  • Hammering the top edge. Strikes that dent or bend the steel show permanently and weaken the strip.
  • Backfilling the lawn side loosely. Settling later creates a dip where the edge sinks out of line.
  • Ignoring frost and soil movement. Check the line each spring and reseat stakes that have pushed up.

Tips for a Longer-Lasting Border

  • Install after the soil is workable but not saturated, so the trench holds its shape.
  • Keep the strip at least a few inches away from tree trunks to avoid root damage during trenching.
  • Run a string trimmer along the lawn side of the edge periodically rather than letting grass build up against it.
  • Apply a light coat of rust-resistant paint or let galvanized finish weather naturally, depending on your look.
  • Recheck stakes and seams after the first season, when the soil has fully settled.

A few supplies make installation faster and the result neater. These are typical picks for this type of project.

  • Rubber dead-blow mallet: Seats the strip without denting the top edge, which is the most common cosmetic mistake on steel borders. View on Amazon
  • Tin snips for sheet metal: Cut strips cleanly without deforming the edge. View on Amazon
  • Line level with a string line: Helps you keep the top edge consistent over long runs. View on Amazon
  • Edging spade: A square-nosed spade makes a clean, vertical trench wall on the lawn side. View on Amazon

FAQ

Can I install vigoro metal landscape edging without digging a trench?

Some metal kits are designed to be driven into soft ground with stakes and need no trench, but results vary with soil type. Heavy clay or compacted soil may require a shallow trench to seat the strip properly. Check your product instructions before skipping the trenching step.

How deep should the strip go?

Follow the depth in your specific product’s instructions. As a general guide, the top of the strip should sit at or just above grade on the bed side and at or just below grade on the lawn side, so the mower passes cleanly.

How far apart should the stakes be?

Manufacturers commonly suggest spacing stakes about 12 to 18 inches apart on straight runs, with closer spacing on curves and at joints. Use the spacing in your kit’s instructions as the final authority.

Can I cut vigoro metal edging with a regular saw?

Tin snips work well for thin steel strips. For thicker gauges, a metal-cutting blade on a power tool is more practical. Wear gloves and eye protection, and file any sharp cut edges.

Will metal edging stop grass from growing into my beds?

It creates a strong barrier against most lawn grass when set correctly, but it is not a complete root barrier. Aggressive runners can sometimes pass beneath or around the strip, so periodic trimming along the edge is still recommended.

Does the metal rust over time?

Steel edging can develop surface rust, especially in wet soil. Galvanized finishes resist corrosion longer. Owners often report that rust is mostly cosmetic, but you should inspect the strip each year, especially at joints and where it meets wet mulch.

How do I keep mulch from washing over the edge?

Set the strip so its top sits slightly above the bed soil, then fill the bed to just below the top edge. Heavy rain or steep slopes may still move mulch, so a shallow lip of soil on the bed side helps hold it in place.

Is it hard to install metal edging on a curved bed?

Curves take more time than straight runs, but they are manageable. Use shorter sections, add stakes at each bend, and shape the strip gradually. Laying out the curve with a garden hose first makes the job far easier.

Conclusion

Vigoro metal landscape edging rewards careful planning. Mark your curve, trench to the right depth, set and stake the strip level, and finish the joints tightly. With those steps in place, you get a durable border that keeps mulch and grass where they belong. Revisit the stakes and seams each spring, and your lawn lines should stay sharp for seasons to come.

Ready to choose one?

Caleb Morgan

About Caleb Morgan

Caleb Morgan is part of our editorial team and reviews and edits our lawn edging & trimming guides, checking product details against manufacturer specifications and owner feedback.